I'd agree about the alignment suggestion.

I had mine done (MY 06, ~3500 miles), and though all 4 corners were within spec, the left rear was at one end of camber spec and the right rear was at the other end of camber spec. The difference between -1.0 and -1.5 is a lot, if you ask me.

I know that many others will prefer greater rear camber (even beyond spec, like -2), so to each their own.

For me personally, for a street machine, I find the smaller (e.g. -1.0) edge of the camber range preferable (even more so if you have wider than stock tires, bigger rims (shorter sidewalls), or stiffer than stock suspension). At lower speeds, the smaller camber makes the rear end of the car corner flatter, and makes the care feel more stable when putting power down especially in turns, and when switching direction quickly.

With big rear camber, like -1.5 and -2, the car has to pivot all of its weight onto the outside tire before it starts grabbing. Then it grabs really, really well. (The point of pivot is the inside edge of the outside tire.) This works great at speed on the track where you really corner fast and relatively long (e.g. 80/90+ MPH sweeping turns). On the street, though all this pivoting makes the rear really move around, just like body roll.

I used to drive and track corvettes (C4), and they run (and handle great) with comparatively small rear camber settings. (Generally about half of what the S2K runs: -0.5 for the street and -0.9 for the track. If you wanted to get really aggresive you'd go -0.9 for street and -1.5 for the track.)

Also remember it's hard to directly compare alignment specs from AP1s against AP2s - different tire width, different sidewall height, different suspension settings. (Yet still, Honda didn't change the specs!!)

In short, check your alignment and get them set evenly, if nothing else. Also, decide on track vs. street and tune accordingly. After you choose your alignment you can still play with air pressures to suite your taste, that will also give you some good feedback on your setup.

 

Camber has NOTHING to do with body roll.

He has a LARGER rear sway bar.

 

Keep your VSA on

 

just put some 10inch rear wheels on the car and some fat sticky rubber to go with it. r compounds if you like but only in the rear

 

Take that CUSCO rear s-bar out as fast as you can! And stop getting parts just to be able to tell you buddies you got them, please.

 

Why turnoff VSC if you are worried about oversteer?

anyway the short answer to your question is to soften the rear so the weight of the car will shift to the rear easier on acceleration...that should help add more traction in the rear. Be gentle on the throttle and don't WOT untill you are almost straight...

 

If you are concerned about oversteer and you need to ask what to do about it, then you should really have the stability assist turned on anytime you're driving on the street. Sometime, take it to the track or an autocross, and then you can turn it off and learn the answers to your question from direct experience.

The stock suspension on the 2006 is pretty benign. I have no idea how the coilovers and swaybars have affected your handling, and of course the only way to find out is to test it in a controlled environment. To be on the safe side, you may want to disconnect the rear swaybar, or remove it and replace it with the stock rear swaybar.

Yes, the front tires can rub the front fender wells even at stock height if you hit a dip just wrong.

 

[QUOTE=gomarlins3,Sep 15 2006, 01:37 PM]A smaller rear sway bar will help.

 

The rule is simple. More roll resistance, which increases weight transfer, at the end where you want less cornering grip. If you are targeting transitional behavior, use the shocks. Otherwise change spring rates or adjust the sway bars. OR, you can adjust the handling by adjusting the alignment. There are other options as well, but you haven't identified a specific problem, so it is impossible to even guess what your best approach might be.

Since your MY06 already understeers more than any of the earlier cars, any excess oversteer is likely to be a driver issue, and the only way to fix that is to spend some time in a good performance driving school.

I agree with those who have suggested that you keep the VSC turned on. Unless you're racing (or showing off) it's your friend.

 

Get an alignment with specs geared towards more rear negative camber and toe in.