I have a BIG Question bout the s2k?
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From: Dry Branch
Originally Posted by f20milo,Mar 11 2008, 10:13 PM
Well, im planning on S/C the s2k but everyone tells me i have to change the rear end. My Question; What reat end do i use?? I wanna take it to the Quarter track, so something that can handle more or less 300whp as a daily?? (obviously i wont rag on the car 24/7 but i will take it to the track from time to time) This is my daily driver! 
S2000 diffs to break, but it's been rare on cars with base supercharger kits. If you want to make big power, then the diff and clutch are both weak points you'll want to address.
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From: Dry Branch
Originally Posted by f20milo,Mar 12 2008, 05:24 PM
Damn yo! You dont have to be so technical. They arent made For THAT, but people use them for that.. The manufacture makes them fast and good looking, for people that have the money and wanna go fast!!
Right on. The S2000 is a road car, not a race car, but there are a lot of S2000 owners who get this confused. 
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i don't think this guy is looking for a Drag car to compete professionally, i think he is more of a weekend warrior wanting to hold his own against the local mustangs and other cars that come out to the local drag strip.
just get the normal supercharger kit aftercooled and upgrade your clutch when yours starts to slip. other than that you should be ok.
Please give some thought to what MX5 said.
abuse is ok depending on how you do it... 6k clutch drop are better than 3k ones.
just get the normal supercharger kit aftercooled and upgrade your clutch when yours starts to slip. other than that you should be ok.
Please give some thought to what MX5 said.
abuse is ok depending on how you do it... 6k clutch drop are better than 3k ones.
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From: Longmont, CO
There's a video out there of an S/C S2000 at a dragstrip breaking a half-shaft at launch. If you're just doing track days and autocrosses, you're fine leaving it stock. But if you plan on doing lots of drop-clutch 1/4mi runs, I suggest you look in to failures other people have experienced - regardless of whether they're N/A or S/C.
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From: The Netherlands
Originally Posted by iqbal624,Mar 12 2008, 10:02 PM
6k clutch drop are better than 3k ones.
I'm not planning on dropping clutch at 3.5K but dropping the clutch around 4.5-5K would be plenty of enough power to break the tires loose instantly with f/i ...
or it doesnt matter if you are having 200whp or 600whp, you should always launch bove 6K?
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Originally Posted by RED MX5,Mar 13 2008, 12:01 PM
No, there is no "golden rule" that makes a 6k+ launch better in every situation.
The thing is, the stock diff isn't strong enough to take repeated launches that don't break the tires stiction cleanly. On OEM tires and typical asphault streets, a 6k launch is enough to insure that stiction is broken cleanly, so it's a relatively safe way to launch a stock car. However, if one misjudges the traction surface, and gets gobs of grip with a 6k launch, the diff is going to suffer. This often happens at drag strips, where grip at the starting line is often "enhanced." Some people also go through the "burnout box," and doing two hard burnouts back to back is also hard on the S2000 diff, becuae it gets hot quickly, and the lube needs to cool a little between launches. As long as you can read the traction surface well enough, and don't make a mistake, you can find places where a 4k (or less) launch will break the stiction cleanly, but if you make a mistake, you'll be punishing the driveline.
With more power (like a high boost turbo) you really need more tire, and more tire combined with more power is more than the stock diff will take, unless you baby it.
The centrifigual blowers don't make much additional power below VTEC (I have about 1 PSI of boost at 4,500 RPM) so driveline stresses below VTEC are not much higher than stock. XViper has a setup similar to mine, and I don't think he's ever launched his car below 6k. We've both done thousands of burnouts had hard launches, as have others here, and I for one sometimes spin the tires while launching at below 6k, but it's not advisable for those who can't read the surface and judge grip accurately.
Add more power than a centrifigual blower, go to the strip where grip is unusually high, upgrade the rubber, upgrade the clutch, or do anything else, and the diff is at greater risk, but the real risks are in the way you drive the car and your ability to judge grip.
Even a 6k drop can break things if the tires get too much grip, and we've seen this more than once, at drag strips.
Some people kill the clutch and/or diff without modding the car, but people do the same thing to Mustangs and pickup trucks. Others have no problems even after mods and countless hard launches. The diffs are the same, but the treatment differs, so really, reilability is totally in the drivers hands.
The thing is, the stock diff isn't strong enough to take repeated launches that don't break the tires stiction cleanly. On OEM tires and typical asphault streets, a 6k launch is enough to insure that stiction is broken cleanly, so it's a relatively safe way to launch a stock car. However, if one misjudges the traction surface, and gets gobs of grip with a 6k launch, the diff is going to suffer. This often happens at drag strips, where grip at the starting line is often "enhanced." Some people also go through the "burnout box," and doing two hard burnouts back to back is also hard on the S2000 diff, becuae it gets hot quickly, and the lube needs to cool a little between launches. As long as you can read the traction surface well enough, and don't make a mistake, you can find places where a 4k (or less) launch will break the stiction cleanly, but if you make a mistake, you'll be punishing the driveline.
With more power (like a high boost turbo) you really need more tire, and more tire combined with more power is more than the stock diff will take, unless you baby it.
The centrifigual blowers don't make much additional power below VTEC (I have about 1 PSI of boost at 4,500 RPM) so driveline stresses below VTEC are not much higher than stock. XViper has a setup similar to mine, and I don't think he's ever launched his car below 6k. We've both done thousands of burnouts had hard launches, as have others here, and I for one sometimes spin the tires while launching at below 6k, but it's not advisable for those who can't read the surface and judge grip accurately.
Add more power than a centrifigual blower, go to the strip where grip is unusually high, upgrade the rubber, upgrade the clutch, or do anything else, and the diff is at greater risk, but the real risks are in the way you drive the car and your ability to judge grip.
Even a 6k drop can break things if the tires get too much grip, and we've seen this more than once, at drag strips.
Some people kill the clutch and/or diff without modding the car, but people do the same thing to Mustangs and pickup trucks. Others have no problems even after mods and countless hard launches. The diffs are the same, but the treatment differs, so really, reilability is totally in the drivers hands.
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From: Dry Branch
Originally Posted by f20milo,Mar 13 2008, 04:42 PM
Ok, let me get this right; I should launch harder so my diff is ok??? Lets say i launch at 6 grand (on stock 245/40/17) is that too hard on my diff? (i feel the car and it feels ok when i launch at 6k, but when i launch at 5and under it feels kinda weird) im going to moroso on april 5, so i'd really like to know..? Thanks RED-MX5 you always seem to know a little about everything about the s2k.
Remember that if you make a bad judgement call, you can trash your cars clutch, differential, or other parts of the driveline. If you do this kind of stuff and break something, don't blame me.
What I'm saying is that it's easier on any car if you break the tire's stiction cleanly. It takes a lot more force to break the tires loose when they have grip, than it does to keep them spinning once they have lost grip. Breaking that initial grip, the stiction, with a "short, sharp, shock," by using a quick clutch drop (XViper says to always sidestep the clutch), is something that some of us have done literally countless times, without busting our differentials. HOWEVER, under conditions of higher than normal traction, as for example at a strip where there is traction compound on the track surface, a quick clutch drop at 6k can still break things, so you have to use your best judgement, and frankly, you have to be ready to pay the price if your judgement turns out to be flawed.
I really don't want to encourage anyone here to go out and start dropping the clutch, at any engine speed, to spin their tires, but if you're going to do it anyway, pick places where you are certain that the tires won't get enough grip to damage your car, and make sure you drop the clutch sharply enough to break stiction so the tires spin instantly. Also, do not let the car bog, and if you get even a hint of wheel hop, abort the launch. Same same for excessive clutch slipping. Always be ready to abort any launch that doesn't feel just right. And also be aware that people DO break differentials, on a pretty regular basis, and know that if you do the same, it's your nickle.
And FWIW, I learned much of what I know about this car from guys like XViper and RoadRage (among others), right here on S2kI.
Oh yea, one other thing; Don't do a series of burnouts without driving around some to let the differential cool down. It heats up very quickly during a burnout, or even modestly hard acceleration, and overheating the oil will greatly increase the chance of a differential failure. Let the poor thing cool down between torture sessions.
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Originally Posted by RED MX5,Mar 13 2008, 03:03 PM
LOL, the safest thing to do is to simply avoid hard launches.
Remember that if you make a bad judgement call, you can trash your cars clutch, differential, or other parts of the driveline. If you do this kind of stuff and break something, don't blame me.
What I'm saying is that it's easier on any car if you break the tire's stiction cleanly. It takes a lot more force to break the tires loose when they have grip, than it does to keep them spinning once they have lost grip. Breaking that initial grip, the stiction, with a "short, sharp, shock," by using a quick clutch drop (XViper says to always sidestep the clutch), is something that some of us have done literally countless times, without busting our differentials. HOWEVER, under conditions of higher than normal traction, as for example at a strip where there is traction compound on the track surface, a quick clutch drop at 6k can still break things, so you have to use your best judgement, and frankly, you have to be ready to pay the price if your judgement turns out to be flawed.
I really don't want to encourage anyone here to go out and start dropping the clutch, at any engine speed, to spin their tires, but if you're going to do it anyway, pick places where you are certain that the tires won't get enough grip to damage your car, and make sure you drop the clutch sharply enough to break stiction so the tires spin instantly. Also, do not let the car bog, and if you get even a hint of wheel hop, abort the launch. Same same for excessive clutch slipping. Always be ready to abort any launch that doesn't feel just right. And also be aware that people DO break differentials, on a pretty regular basis, and know that if you do the same, it's your nickle.
And FWIW, I learned much of what I know about this car from guys like XViper and RoadRage (among others), right here on S2kI.
Oh yea, one other thing; Don't do a series of burnouts without driving around some to let the differential cool down. It heats up very quickly during a burnout, or even modestly hard acceleration, and overheating the oil will greatly increase the chance of a differential failure. Let the poor thing cool down between torture sessions.
Remember that if you make a bad judgement call, you can trash your cars clutch, differential, or other parts of the driveline. If you do this kind of stuff and break something, don't blame me.
What I'm saying is that it's easier on any car if you break the tire's stiction cleanly. It takes a lot more force to break the tires loose when they have grip, than it does to keep them spinning once they have lost grip. Breaking that initial grip, the stiction, with a "short, sharp, shock," by using a quick clutch drop (XViper says to always sidestep the clutch), is something that some of us have done literally countless times, without busting our differentials. HOWEVER, under conditions of higher than normal traction, as for example at a strip where there is traction compound on the track surface, a quick clutch drop at 6k can still break things, so you have to use your best judgement, and frankly, you have to be ready to pay the price if your judgement turns out to be flawed.
I really don't want to encourage anyone here to go out and start dropping the clutch, at any engine speed, to spin their tires, but if you're going to do it anyway, pick places where you are certain that the tires won't get enough grip to damage your car, and make sure you drop the clutch sharply enough to break stiction so the tires spin instantly. Also, do not let the car bog, and if you get even a hint of wheel hop, abort the launch. Same same for excessive clutch slipping. Always be ready to abort any launch that doesn't feel just right. And also be aware that people DO break differentials, on a pretty regular basis, and know that if you do the same, it's your nickle.
And FWIW, I learned much of what I know about this car from guys like XViper and RoadRage (among others), right here on S2kI.
Oh yea, one other thing; Don't do a series of burnouts without driving around some to let the differential cool down. It heats up very quickly during a burnout, or even modestly hard acceleration, and overheating the oil will greatly increase the chance of a differential failure. Let the poor thing cool down between torture sessions.
Thanks!