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I've been looking into solutions to resolving the bucking issues and found that a simple fix like installing a CAI isn't going to solve your issues.
Like tenblade2001 said, the OEM ECU is responsible for retarding (pulling) all of the ignition timing, leaving your car powerless/torqueless in stop and go traffic under very little load which is IMHO stupid. The ECU takes values taken from the map sensor, TPS (throttle position sensor), IAT (intake air temps), coolant temps, knock count, etc. and makes the appropriate adjustments, however I think the ECU is being overly conservative and paranoid to the point where it's hurting more than it's helping.
My (RIP) VW Rabbit GTI has an old-fashioned distributor vacuum advance ignition that is not ECU controlled. The setting is 12 degreess advanced and if I let the car get hot and all of the sudden turned the distributor so I have 6 degrees retarded timing it'd bog and even stall the car in 1st trying to drive up my driveway's little slope, even while slipping the clutch to the point where it smells burnt.
Cooling mods are a must using a lower temp fan switch and thermostat, a Hondata insulator helps a lot more than any CAI/snorkel I've tried, but the one thing I can't do is desensitize the knock sensor and have the ECU ignore errornous data values that would make my car run like crap, which is what I believe is happening for the majority. I can't believe the MAP sensor alone can contribute to all these symptoms, but maybe it is. I have 1 more thing coming in as we speak that may have the solution I've been looking for. More on that later.
For a regular daily driving basis (like me), which would be more appropriate? The snorkel would look cool and seems like it would do a good job, however there is also the Comptech Ice Box type of intake. Which would be better?
Excluding the price differences, which is better for normal driving in about 60-90 degrees weather (change of seasons)?
*This is for a daily driving car. Main purpose for this question is to get better throttle response and less heat*
I just got a spoon type snorkle put in be4 my trip to L.A. where I knew I would be in alot of stop and go traffic. I had experienced first hand the heat hesitation that these cars have a weakness towards and was educated in another thread about some heat studies that another member posted a few years back. After insulating and snorkleing, I was unhappy with the restrictive airflow of the snorkle (one half inch by 5 inch across as it dives down in front of the radiator) that I cut out the top panel of the snorkle to relieve this restriction.
I have been in L.A. for the past week in 100 degree temps and have experienced no dead spots even on steep stop and go starts.
It's not the prettiest engine but that will come as come across the cover meshes.
I am very thankful to all the wonderful posters who have done all the leg work in this forum to help us newbies out!
Originally Posted by BlitzSRM,Sep 8 2004, 10:02 PM
Hyper, got me curious what is that one thing???
I can't say just yet, don't want to create any expectations, but with the combination of a borrowed scan tool and a laptop with new software, I'm in the process of logging the exact conditions as to what's happening since now I've discovered a consistent way to reproduce the bogging issue and it happens on cue.
I don't want to "fix" it yet until I obtain the information I need when it happens. If my theory is right, there's no easy way to cure this problem.
i just put my comptech airbox on yesterday and i like it. it doesn't bog as much as before, at speed it repsonds better, and it sounds hella nice once i rip into vtec.
thanks WONGAWA.
[QUOTE=Hyper-X,Sep 8 2004, 09:38 PM]I've been looking into solutions to resolving the bucking issues and found that a simple fix like installing a CAI isn't going to solve your issues.
Like tenblade2001 said, the OEM ECU is responsible for retarding (pulling) all of the ignition timing, leaving your car powerless/torqueless in stop and go traffic under very little load which is IMHO stupid.
