Yes, the OEM door speakers fit in the back. That's what you see in my pics above. I used the Sony speaker cover to protect them. No, it is not a must to have the harness if you get an amp, but without tapping into the unused speaker outputs on the stock HU, it may not be possible to use the "fader" control. These can be wired following the instructions with your amp but certainly Lucid's harness will make the job a bit easier.

 

i just did the same thing tonight. i was a little disappointed. it sounded louder, but the sound stage was kind of weird. BTW, the stock speakers suck. personally, i would choose some nice speakers instead of the stock ones. the stock ones fit fine, but smaller speakers would probably make the installation a bit easier.
the first one took me a long time to do, but once i figured out how to do it in an effiencient way, it is actually very simple. dont need to buy a harness. just find the right size speaker wires and jam them into the vacant holes in the stock harness, then secure them with some heat resistent glue. you can also make a little hairpin at the end of the wire to hold the wires in place. sorry dont have pictures to show you. if you are not handy and dont want to spend some time, buy them from Lucid.

 

Thanks.Could you describe in which holes did you put them and did you put 4 wires?

 

It is very easy to confuse what I'm about to say. A Helm manual would be most useful here.
You need 4 wires - a plus and a negative wire for each speaker. Pull out the harness from the back of the radio and look at it as it sits when it's plugged into the radio. You will notice the 4 slots in the middle have no wires going into them. These are the second (rear) set of speaker outputs. Find the corresponding pins in the back of the radio. The top pins are (+) and the bottom ones are (-). Do a test run before putting it all back together again to determine left and right.
It's not a simple matter of just pushing the wires through and attaching them to the back of the radio. You must find a secure way to hold them onto the pins (solder). You can try to find the exact same wire clips that Honda uses but these might be difficult to locate. If they are not on securely, they'll vibrate loose and you'll have to do it all over again. This is why Lucid's harness is so handy. Don't forget your radio code before you disconnect the power to it or you won't be able to activate it afterwards.

 

can you please share how you guys cut the panels? what tools? is there a stencil that you used? what's the largest size that'll fit in there?

thanks!

 

Check out this thread. There's some good info there.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...ghlight=masking

 

thanks~!

 

does it metter what stock radio I have?
I have the one lucid says its UK.
And what are all those wires you see on the harness on lucid site? and why is it so big when all you need are 4 wires more?

 

The beauty of Lucid's harness is that you simply plug his into the back of the radio, then you plug the one that WAS in the radio into his harness. That's why it needs to be so big - it has to have 2 plug-in connectors. From the second connector, you have the 4 wires that you need to connect to the 2 speakers. You cannot just replace the existing harness because it's connected to stuff elsewhere in the car. He could have made it much simpler looking but that would have made it necessary for you to cut/strip all your existing wires and spice them onto the new harness. This would make it too easy to get wires mixed up and it's actually a lot more work for you.

 

personally, i wouldnt try to solder it. unless you are experienced and have the right tools, you are more likely to ruin something. if you dont want the fuss, buy the harness from lucid.
do a search on " rear speaker installation guide," you should be able to find pictures of which holes to insert your wires. i will try to explain to you here, but make sure you double check.
if you look at the harness, there are 20 slots. 10 in first row and 10 in second row. start counting from left upper corner. # 7 and 17 are for front driver speakers and 8, 18 are for front, passenger speakers. 5, 15 are for rear driver speaker and 6,16 are for rear passenger speaker. each slot actually has two holes. a smaller hole is on top of the big hole. if you thread your wire through the big hole and make a hairpin loop at the end( about 1/2 centermeter long), then pull back the wire a little to thread the end of the hairpin into the small hole, you will make it really secure, then just secure the wires to the slots with some glue use something that can be removed easily, in case you have to in the future. you should be ok as long as your wires are thick enough, then you wont have to worry about poor contact between the wires and the pins.
cutting the plastic panels is the most challenging. if you are using small speakers, there is more room for errors, but if you are installing 6 1/2 inch stock speakers, there is little room for errors because there isnt much room for the magnets. i dont have a template, i kind of just experimented a little. it worked out fine, but the first hole i cut out was a bit too big. make sure you make a small hole first, then make adjustments from there. as a guidline, your speaker should pretty much center between the hook and the vent.
it's a lot of work, if you are not handy i suggest you buy the stuff from lucid. but if you are cheap and handy and like to fiddle with your car, try it. costed me practically nothing to install the rear speakers.