cosmomiller

You want to be sure the damping material does not have a residual smell. I recall that was a significant problem for some. As you know, after some research, I went with the B Quiet. No smell. It is not super light weight but again you don’t have to coat 100% of the area for that to be effective. You can see in the pictures I did more than required on the floor under the carpet/seats because I felt it was a good trade off.

You will want to apply the sound deadining material first then add the acoustic material (Thinsulate or whatever) on top of that. Not sure about the hard top as I do not have one. I don’t know if there is a cavity between the top and the cabin interior.

The doors make a huge difference in sound. You only need some strips to apply to the metal sheet panel and then use the Thinsulate to cover up. Those doors are really some of the biggest of the low lying fruit, if you will, to make a difference. The sound the door makes when it closes changes and your sound system will take off.

Downgear

Yes, this is exactly what I have been trying to acquire! I have found many places that have dynomat or equivalent strong smelling mat materials but have not been able to find someone to sell me B Quiet and the OEM materials. Even if we found a large commercial retailer, we could buy a large amount and arrange a group buy.

Car Analogy

I am working on a light weight sound deadening project. Did the doors so far with outstanding results. Added less than a pound total for both doors. Doors close much quieter, wrapping knuckle on panel is deader than wife Lexus RX, and its much quieter on the highway.

The method involves sound damping tiles with about 30% coverage to the doors, along with bytul rope to the door beams, and a full coverage layer of a foil bubble wrap type material. It was made for heat insulation, but they now market it for sound deadening as well.

The goal was light, cheap, reasonably effective. So far so good...

I will do floors next.

BrewDay09

Do you recall about how many square feet of Thinsulate you used for the tunnel, floors, and doors? There is an eBay vendor that sells the thick stuff in increments of 25 sqft (5 ft x 5 ft). Thanks.

cosmomiller

On a overseas trip. Will check when I get back to CONUS Monday.

EffWun

Finally did the 30-60% coverage of anti vibration on the door shell and behind the door panel; doors close more solid but not much decrease in sound as I'm deciding upon either MLV or thinsulate to order to place over the anti vibrationary roll ons. I am now going to check ebay for the thin stuff thinsulate as I already have the thick stuff (not sure if I have enough for the interior cabin and to stuff behind bulk head.)

Secondly, what adhesive spray did you use to apply the thinsulate thick stuff to the door or did you just cut a square and dropped it in behind the window (closest to outside of door). I'm assuming trunk and cabin area is just flopped on w/ no form of adhesive?

Do you believe thinsulate absorbs better unwanted noise over a MLV ?

thanks

cosmomiller

I used 3M 77 spray adhesive. Once the strips of BQuiet were laid on the door skin between the tubes, I sprayed the adhesive as best I could. When I inserted the “blanket” of thicker Thinsulate, i applied pressure at the top to get an initial bond, then more pressure to attach the portion between the next lower tubes. The “high” points that passed over the tubes were not sprayed or adhered to anything. Only the portions of the skin were bonded. Probably 3 or four sections, top and bottom. The vibration material (BQuiet) did change how the door sounded when closing but the Thinsulate also joined forces to pretty much kill any noise coming through the door. In addition, it made the stock speakers sound completely different. (Yes a new HU was added too)

The Thinsulate, as you can see from my postings, for the trunk and behind the seats was very thin. I cut it to shape and left it as is. A couple of small pieces I did stick a little to keep them in place.

If you are limited on supplies, pass on the trunk. That is the least bang for the buck except for under the plastic top pan over the gas fill and spare tire. Since you have done the doors, I would do the tunnel and floors followed by the back bulkhead. No need to go forward of the seats.

cosmomiller

Sorry, your post slipped my mind. I do not recall the square feet. I would think it would be easy to do a rough calculation with a measuring tape and an unmolested car. Close enough. The thick stuff (compare what the eBay guy’s specs are with my pics and measurements) can really be thick and not super compressible. It will not work as well if it is smashed. The thick stuff (if it really is the thick stuff) may not work for under the carpet and tunnel. I used the medium stuff for that. The very thin was for the inside or door shells (not to be confused with BQuiet and thick Thinsulate on the door skin) and under other covering. It did not interfere with attaching those pieces.

BrewDay09

No worries. I went ahead and bought 50 sq ft of the thick stuff. I have only finished the floor, tunnel, and back but it was way too much. I still have the doors to go but I'm also looking for other places to use the remainder. I'm thinking about doing the tray and fuel tank / spare tire area as you suggested above. Any additional thoughts on that?

You are right about the difficulty with the thick stuff in the floor. The stuff I bought is 1-3/4" when expanded and I had a tough time getting the carpet pieces back in place, but it is possible. The carpet puffs up a bit but it is not noticeable at all. Here is what I bought:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Thinsula.../131754566187?

The sound improvement is noticeable but not spectacular. I'm hoping the doors and other areas make it even better. Vibration reduction from the butyl mat (I used Noico) has been very good too.

EffWun

Thanks, I shall get the adhesive and spray to attach the flat spots of the door (3-4 panels) and avoid spraying the beams.

Will also do the cabin door and behind bulkhead/spare tire since it's gutted back there with no soft top so a lot of sound reverberations between that empty cavity and the hardtop. I currently have random mattress foams/egg foam scrapes to cut noise in that area for now but because of the gaps there is a noise cavity i assume.

Did you guys spray your carpet/under carpet thinsulate thick stuff or just drop in loosely and let the carpet/seats compress it secure. I also used Noico, forgot to mention that's the anti vibration I used.