Leasing Questions
Originally Posted by skier219,Aug 25 2005, 10:59 AM
Unfortunately, that's not the case. If you finance or buy your car and then build some minimal "equity" into it with payments, if it gets totalled in an accident you're going to have a hard time finding any equity in the situation -- they will not pay you back for the amount of equity you have in the car -- you'll get the current residual for the vehicle, no matter what you've paid into the deal. And if that situation happens in the early part of a financing program, you'll be lucky to come out even! Cars are not the kind of thing you will get much, if any, equity from.
the residual is what you owe on the loan...what you're saying is if you owe $8K on a car worth $12K, you only get $8K and that is certainly NOT the way it works.
Of course, "market value" can vary widely.
Now, if you total early in the loan and owe more than the value, you may be SOL. It depends, though. I get both my loan and insurance through USAA, and in this instance USAA would just pay my loan. With other companies you should consider gap insurance.
In June I got rear ended. It had to go through subrogation because Hartford was hard to deal with. I owed $18K on the car and got the $22K USAA deemed to be the market value on my 2001. In other words, I kept my equity.
Originally Posted by LABrit,Aug 25 2005, 11:35 AM
how much would it cost to break the lease say after 24 months if it was a 3yr leasE??
It can vary from as simple as paying the any remaining interest on the lease (yes, leases have interest built into the payment). This would be about a third of your payment for 12 months. Or it can be as severe as having to pay the remaining 12 lease payments (in which case it would be just stupid to terminate). Since you're giving the car back, you'd have to pay the disposition fee and any applicable lease early termination fees, too.
you have to call to ask.
Almost any company will let you buy out the lease at the current residual. You could do that and just sell the car the next day. That would get you out without any fees. You may not be able to sell it for the current residual, though.
Originally Posted by steven975,Aug 25 2005, 12:39 PM
if you buy a car and build equity in it, and you get into an accident and total it, you get market value for the car, NOT THE RESIDUAL.
the residual is what you owe on the loan...what you're saying is if you owe $8K on a car worth $12K, you only get $8K and that is certainly NOT the way it works.
Of course, "market value" can vary widely.
Now, if you total early in the loan and owe more than the value, you may be SOL. It depends, though. I get both my loan and insurance through USAA, and in this instance USAA would just pay my loan. With other companies you should consider gap insurance.
In June I got rear ended. It had to go through subrogation because Hartford was hard to deal with. I owed $18K on the car and got the $22K USAA deemed to be the market value on my 2001. In other words, I kept my equity.
the residual is what you owe on the loan...what you're saying is if you owe $8K on a car worth $12K, you only get $8K and that is certainly NOT the way it works.
Of course, "market value" can vary widely.
Now, if you total early in the loan and owe more than the value, you may be SOL. It depends, though. I get both my loan and insurance through USAA, and in this instance USAA would just pay my loan. With other companies you should consider gap insurance.
In June I got rear ended. It had to go through subrogation because Hartford was hard to deal with. I owed $18K on the car and got the $22K USAA deemed to be the market value on my 2001. In other words, I kept my equity.
In almost any loan on any car you would have to put down a very significant downpayment to stay ahead of the curve in the early part of the loan. A new car pretty much drops 10-15% or more in value as soon as you drive it off the lot, before even 1 monthly payment is made.
In your $18K versus $22K example, you also need to factor in any money you have put into the car -- downpayment, monthly payments, etc.... Add that all to the $18K and subtract from $22K to determine the effective "equity". I do hate using that term on cars, as equity implies a share of a property that has future value. That gets dubious in the context of cars.
Craig
Originally Posted by steven975,Aug 25 2005, 12:41 PM
It can vary from as simple as paying the any remaining interest on the lease (yes, leases have interest built into the payment). This would be about a third of your payment for 12 months.
263.12 depreciation fee (effective "principle" on the effective "loan" you are paying off)
35.88 finance fee (effective "interest" on the deal)
So in this case, the effective interest is about 12% of the monthly payment.
Craig
For those who asked before, the lease company is AFHC. The deal I got is not too spectacular, it is essentially the promotional deal adjusted for a lower capitalized cost due to the fact that I negotiated the price the dealer sold the car to the lease company. I essentially saved about 1500 (diff of ~31800 vs invoice of ~30300) or about $45 a month because of this. Use Skier's spreadsheet and read the leaseguide, they are very helpful in negotiating - Thanks Skier!
Originally Posted by WVtwisties,Aug 23 2005, 10:56 PM
OK....sure you're right....but in this context it doesn't apply. Someone with a lot of money invested doesn't consider leasing instead of purchasing so that they can buy 3 more shares of XYZ!
Yeah
Yeah
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