Lowering the drivers seat.
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: FloriDuh
Originally Posted by sr240sxt,Aug 20 2009, 01:52 PM
Wow, that is awesome, do you have any pics of this by chance? Do you need anything special to bend the rail tabs down like a huge clamp or anything like that? What exactly do you mean by slotted?
score!
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Honolulu
I'd try the modding foam before modding the pan to be sure you're comfortable with lowering just the seat bottom. I'm lowered by cutting foam and at first was fine with the seat back unchanged. After several weeks of almost daily driving I find I'll need to also re-contour the seat back foam to adjust lumbar support. Lower seat rails are starting too look cheaper.
Before and after foam seat bottoms:
Before and after foam seat bottoms:
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 287
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From: New York State
I used a dremel with a cutting wheel, and cut from the end of the tab to the hole. This made a slot. Then I used a hammer to just pound down the two tabs to where I wanted them. You could also use a hack saw to make the cuts. I put the seat rails on my basement floor and measured from the floor to the tab, and just kept pounding until they were the same distance from the floor.
I only did one tab. You need to do this since dropping the tabs (to lower the seat bottom) effectively makes the tabs shorter, and the studs on the seat pan won't drop into the holes 'as is'.
Sorry, no pictures.
I only did one tab. You need to do this since dropping the tabs (to lower the seat bottom) effectively makes the tabs shorter, and the studs on the seat pan won't drop into the holes 'as is'.
Sorry, no pictures.
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Originally Posted by JDR159,Aug 21 2009, 05:49 AM
I used a dremel with a cutting wheel, and cut from the end of the tab to the hole. This made a slot. Then I used a hammer to just pound down the two tabs to where I wanted them. You could also use a hack saw to make the cuts. I put the seat rails on my basement floor and measured from the floor to the tab, and just kept pounding until they were the same distance from the floor.
I only did one tab. You need to do this since dropping the tabs (to lower the seat bottom) effectively makes the tabs shorter, and the studs on the seat pan won't drop into the holes 'as is'.
Sorry, no pictures.
I only did one tab. You need to do this since dropping the tabs (to lower the seat bottom) effectively makes the tabs shorter, and the studs on the seat pan won't drop into the holes 'as is'.
Sorry, no pictures.
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 287
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From: New York State
Maybe, but I haven't noticed. If so, it's probably shifted 1/4" or less to one side (half of the offset). You could slot both sides, then try to center the pan between the rails if you wanted. It wasn't enough of a concern for me to do this.
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Originally Posted by JDR159,Aug 21 2009, 12:27 PM
Maybe, but I haven't noticed. If so, it's probably shifted 1/4" or less to one side (half of the offset). You could slot both sides, then try to center the pan between the rails if you wanted. It wasn't enough of a concern for me to do this.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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Just throwing this out there, we have 6 of the Backyard Special rails in stock
http://www.bulletproofautomotive.com/catal...tail.php?ID=296
-Colin
http://www.bulletproofautomotive.com/catal...tail.php?ID=296
-Colin
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 287
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From: New York State
My tabs didn't move when I tightened the bolts down. The seat is just as safe as before: The seat belt is anchored to the rail, and it's the seat belt that retains you in a crash, not the seat bottom.