Zero-60in5

Well, I'm getting to the point where I'm going to be installing an amp in the stook. I have a couple of questions that some of you may be able to help me on.

I believe I know how the wires will go, but I'm worried about logistics. I'm not sure where the amp will go yet (under seat or in spare tire well). My question is: Those of you who have installed amps, where did you run the wires that came from the head unit to the amp and then back from the amp to the speakers? From the looks of it, the best place I can see would be to get into the center console somehow and run them through that, but I haven't taken time to check yet.

I'm sure I can figure all this out on my own, but it's always easier to ask first.

I want to see how this is going to work with the factory head unit. I already installed aftermarket Polk speakers. From what I understand, the sound quality is still going to stink since the head unit is very poor quality. That being the case, I'll be saving up some money, and for Xmas, I'll buy myself a head unit with Pinky's harness for the remote controls.

Appreciate any help I can get on this before I start taking the car apart.

Aft3rburn

Hi Zero-60in5,
I would only want to give you advice in this area, since I don't have the S2k yet. In my experience of audio installations, I run power down the left side of the car and the signal cables down the right. Your idea of going down the center console may be easy, but it may be asking for trouble. If the power wire is too close to the signal cables, you MIGHT get noise induced into the system. If you're putting the amp in the trunk, I would run the power down the left by going through the firewall and staying on the left wall. you may have to take off the door jamb cover (usually plastic) and the cable would run along the length of the bottom of the door. This would be the same for the signal cables, but on the right side of the car.

Pinky would be a good person to contact, as I think he's the resident guru

Taimur

Personally I did leave my stock stereo in and installed a PPI 4400 series amp ($450) in the left side of the spare tire. There is room there for a very skinny amp & mine was skinny. Under the seat, NO room. The right of the trunk is also a good area for the amp. I put in Morale 5 1/4 inch component speakers ($300 for a pair) cut into the door panel which eliminates the sound being blocked by your leg & quality is very clear with them. Finally a Cadence Beast 12 inch Sub ($300 in box)
I have changed 3 subs 2 different sub enclosures. 1st one was a flushed in the trunk well 10 inch PPI sub but blew the in 3 weeks cause the box was too small. 2nd different sub was put in, 10 inch Cerwin Vega which was better than the PPI but also blew in a month or so. Plus there wasn't enough bass from these 10 inches. So now I have cadence 12 inch which is in a different square enclosure. Its NOT flushed in the well and sits in it. I still think the box is smaller for the sub specs but sound 10 times better than all other previous installs.

But now i think I wanna change the stock stereo cause the quality is not there and it starts killing the power to the amp when turned up. It probably only send 1.5 volts max to the amp and after market ones send at least 4 volts. I am looking into buying a Nakamichi CD-45z ($300) amazing stereo but lacks a subwoofer volume control. Or a Clarion 9675z ($650) which has a lot features.

I am not that familiar with the install since I didn't install it but know this much you have to change everything with this stereo. It will cost you $$$$ if you truly want good sound.

Pinky

Taimur: Go with the Clarion. Nack isnt what it used to be!(seriously)

Well as for the install. Please take it to a qualified experienced installer. I havent ripped apart my car that much yet but its fairly easy(its a Honda!). I would say practice on a old car not a new S. If you must ask some friends I can only give you guide lines. Talking somebody throught a stereo install is just way to hard in my opinion(explained without confusion).

I would say run your signal wires down the tunnel area and the power along the floor its easier to hid down there. There isnt much room for error in the tunnel area!

I say take it to an experienced installer because every install has its own quarks even if its the same car with the same equipment!(learned that just from the head unit replacement)

I am here if you guys need help getting equipment such as head units amps or speakers.(more head units than anything) Plus for any questions I will try to answer to the best of my ability.

Just understand I dont know everything dont claim to.....everybody does their installs differently. I can only speak to my experiences with equipment/installations. That said FIRE OR FLAME AWAY!
*Pinky grabs his helmet and jumps into his fox hole*

Aft3rburn

Hey Pinky,
On your site you said you deal with Kenwood on a case-by-case basis...how about the Kenwood 919? or can you recommend any other MP3 in-dash cd players?

koejing

Taimur,

I am assuming that your PPI amp has speaker level inputs which you are driving with the factory head unit, is this correct? If that is the case the head unit is providing way more than 1.5v to your amp. The power cut out phenomenon you are experiencing is the result of inputting a clipped signal into your amp. The PPI probably has a protection circuit that decouples the amp from the speakers in the event that it detects DC in the output signal (DC = Speaker Killer). To fix this problem, increase the gain of the PPI amp. This will increase your output at the amp side, relieving the burden from the factory head unit which clips quite easily.

koejing

Pinky

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Aft3rburn:
[B]Hey Pinky,
On your site you said you deal with Kenwood on a case-by-case basis...how about the Kenwood 919? or can you recommend any other MP3 in-dash cd players?

Sunchild

WTF?! If he wanted a professional installer, he would've asked for one. Seems to me that this is really easy. Just run the power from the battery, across the engine compartment, through the grommet into the driver's side by the pedals, under the carpet, under the runner trim beneath the door, under the carpet and the trim piece behind the seat, and through the hole into the trunk just above the fuel tank.

Run the speaker and patch lines out of the trunk on the passenger side behind the spare tire, through the trim peice behind the seat, into the center console carpet, under the strange passenger side knee-pad, into the head unit compartment.

Please feel free to correct me.

S2K-F8

Zero-60in5,

If you want your amp hidden, remove the panel in the trunk that is left of the spare tire. There is limited space in there, but I've got 2 Fosgate amps in there with no problem. Best of all, they are out of the way and make use of dead space.

I have to agree with everyone else on where to run your wires.

ALSO- If you are going to upgrade the head unit eventually, run the RCA cable NOW! You might as well run this cable while you are running all the others. It will save a lot of time and trouble down the road.

My $.02

Pinky

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Sunchild:
[B]WTF?!