The Spoon install is very, very easy.

1) Remove the airbox lid, and remove the stock airbox "horn" by snipping off the rivets that hold it in place.

2) Using a dremel, or equally compact cutting tool, cut a section of the plastic radiator cover, takes about 5 min if you have the right tool.

3) Feed the Spoon snorkel down the hole

4) Replace the airbox lid.

VOILA!! I personally had to adjust the hood latch slightly so that the hood did not contact the snorkel when I closed it. I also put two small strips of padded tape on the underside of the hood, so if there was any contact, it wouldn't damage the snorkel.


There are some copies out there, which are much cheaper, and I'm sure they perform just as well. But nothing beats the weave quality of the authentic Spoon piece.

 

Just a quick addition, i've read that replicas don't fit perfect for some reason, especially around the opening of the airbox, and the addition of some sort of sealant (or tape) was required to seal the connection between the airbox and the snorkel.

The Spoon one fits perfect, and doesn't move at all, therefore you don't need zip ties at the bottom, which i've seen used on the replicas as well.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Road Rage
03_AP1 and Bob:

 

Hint:

If your modification involves cutting the stock air guide or baffle, the easiest way to do this is to "score" it where you want it to separate with a box blade or similar, then knock off the unwanted material with a hammer. This is much like cutting glass or ceramic tile. And much easier, quicker, and more accurate than other methods.

Thanks,
Richard

 

That's what I thought - I looked at it, and all this worry and "obvious" heat soak just did not pan out in my mind. Bolting a thermometer to the radiator only tells me radiators get hot - I knew that. It is the IAT at speed that is the prime issue for sports car driving - IAT at idle is a drag race issue.

I will probably get the Spoon, if only for a possible ram effect, and it is the easiest to put back to stock. I would prefer to remove the air cover between the engine and the radiator - cutting it seems a brute force approach. Since it is ABS, scoring it and hammering it would like not work, so if I cut it, it will be with a Dremel. Too bad the Spoon is not black CF - it looks kind of grey/green in the pics. Any other outfitsd make a quality piece with a better match to our intyake ducting?

Thanks 03_AP1 for the good tips.

Dolebludger: I admire your passion, but I think you are focusing a lot of energy on some things with little benefit. The heat transfer between any ABS ducting and the air moving through a large air box at the velocities encountered here is tiny, and not worth mucking up the aesthetics of the engine bay.

 

Good luck removing that rad cover....it has some interesting screw locations.

As far as the color of Spoon goes, THAT'S THE BEST PART!!!!!!

 

Bob, that looks really good. Very functional and I like it!

 

RR:

The reasons for my mods were different from those of others, perhaps. I wanted only better low rpm pull, and a lower rpm at which the clutch could be realistically engaged (to save wear on the plates). I wasn't looking for any "post VTEC" power increase, as I was satisfied with that. My mods did the job, for little money. And the engine bay does not look as "mucked up" in person as you might think. And as I bought a used airbox to modify, the whole thing is reversible to bone stock in 30 minutes. And my ducting is all insulated at R 13 or 19 --- not ABS with high heat transfer. And I actually did score and knock out the baffle, just as neatly and quickly as I described.

Another way we could get "scientific proof" is to tape the thermometer on the filter with stock set up and various CAI's. But for the true picture, we'd need something to measure air volume too.

But now let me respectfully turn the tables as to scientific proof. Has anyone measured airflow through those small, oblong slots in the grill top cover to see how much cool air comes in there and at what speed? IMO, they are way too small and wrongly placed to be a cool air supply for the stock intake at below 300 mph airspeed! And I repeat: the s2k is the only new car, truck, SUV, van, or whatever that I can find that pulls its air in from the RELATIVELY sealed in area in the engine bay. All the rest have direct ducting to some outside area. (Even my truck!) Is the s2k right and all other vehicle designs just a waste of money and ducting?

But know that I live in a climate where it gets VERY hot. In N. Dakota, I might not have seen the need. And I will certainly agree that CAI's will only give better low end pull, a louder and different sound, or both. For performance above VTEC, I don't think any of them make any difference in performance.

Thanks,
Richard

 

Richard:
I don't think the OE does pull significant hot air at idle and none at speed, based on a physical exam and confirmation from JL9000 and others. ABS does not have a high heat transfer rate, and as a mechanical engineer, I did the math and found that the air intake velocity and surface area of the ABS ducting results in a tiny heat exchange. I will take your word for it on the ABS scoring issue.

The other thermometers issues again are not needed nor effective compared to what is available via an OBDII scanner. MR294 was here the other day and we scanned my car, and found by Auto Xray 6000 would display IAT and the air intake in grams, which can be equated to volume easily. I can capture and retain those numbers for baseline, and will. In fact, I will do some measurements as soon as it gets hot here, and I am sure summer in Virginia classifies as hot.

I also do not agree 100% about the S2000 having a backward air intake design. The Acura TL's (late model) have a system that has an intake horn just behind the headlight, and more in the engine bay than the S2000 is. The airbox is much smaller for the 3.2L than the S2000's is for a 2.0-2.2L. From an engineering perspective, it really comes down to does the intake provide enough air to satisfy the demands of a 2L engine at 9K - it does, by far! My NSX had a small airbox that had an outlet facing down into the left side rear intake duct, but pointed downward! Which Honda models are better by your reckoning? I do not pretend to have examined everything out there, but I did examine my brother's 2003 E55 AMG monster yesterday, and it had a "V" ducting setup pulling air from just below the engine shroud intersection at the front ends of the radiator - remind you of anyone we know and love?

MY SVT Cobra has an in-fender design, but then requires then requires the intake charge to make a 90 deg turn into the MAF sensor. It is borderline enough volume to satisfy the needs of that engine, having been designed for the non-supercharged V8's and V6's. By putting in an in-bay "straight-ahead" design (which pulled underhood air) I still picked up 18 rwhp!

Now, I am not faulting you or trying to belittle your efforts, since your mods are cheap, have not required major gutting of stock parts, and are easy to put back to stock condition. I just wish you would apply all that energy and find us some REAL horsepower.

Then, we would all bow down and worship at the Temple of Dolebludger!

 

RR:

Find us some real horsepower? I only wish I knew how! I'm afraid we are about at the limit of NA 2.0 and 2.2 liter engines. The tech writers at "Road and Track" (April '03 issue) told me that super or turbo charging would probably blow my tranny, clutch and differential! So unless we want to rebuild the mechanicals from the ground up (and pay a huge price) we are just going to have to be content with a few minor tweeks to suit our personal preference and/or climate, and enjoy the car. And when we save up that huge price, we'd all be better off with selection of another car that we KNOW would have more horsepower and performance.

Thanks,
Richard