To answer a few questions: NEO has actually been around 30 or so years, and yes it is the same as neosyntheticoil.com. A small volume, high quality producer. It is a full diester based synthetic, not a blend. Over the years the formulations have changed some and are constantly evolving.

If you have bad metallurgy, or shot synchros, no lube can cure it. But, by reducing the surface friction and increasing the film strength, longevity goes way up. There is a difference between notchy and TICLUNK. I sold Rick his oil, but this is not a plug for me, only the product. As I've said before, I am past twenty years as a user, and have analysis results that prove superiority. If you are going to sell your car in a few years, it may not matter. If you keep it ten or more, it makes a huge difference. History may repeat itself, but the problem is learning from past wisdom. This is a well developed technology and there is plenty of info to read. As far as the dealership tribulations, keep in mind the spec oil has to meet minimum standards. Even the lowliest synthetic or partial blend is light years beyond the factory fill. If you want to know more, I'll gladly ramble on in as much detail as you want.

 

How well does the NEO perform in the warm up stage and up in the high heat stage? Those are the main two of concern.

 

I presume you are talking about the MTF. It is approximately a 7 weight oil. The big advantage to diester oils is that they have a very narrow range of viscosity change compared to dino juice. Gear lubes are a little different from motor oils as they don't have to buffer acids and deal with moisture and gasoline dilution. NEO's shear strength is about 6 times higher than petroleum based oils, and it's film strength proportionally so. Because of this, it flows when cold ( I think the pour point is -60 F, but I don't have the literature in front of me) and doesn't thin appreciably when hot. The stiff transmissions some have reported when cold are due to metal contraction; just like your muscles, you've got to get up to temperature. The slippery nature of the MTF is partly due to the diester molecular structure, and partly due to the additive package. The use of certain elements in solution adds to the performance. The acidic sulphur others have mentioned as being detrimental to bronze is alleviated by using a bonded sulphur that doesn't pit.
There has been some question as to the frequency of oil changes. I noted in my factory manual that the 60K mark is designated. That does seem like a long time, but the only wear on the oil is the shearing of the molecules by the mechanical action of the gears. The additive package doesn't wear out. I personally feel it is probably 100k, but if you like to change it, go ahead. The differential is another story because of the excessive loads, but we have run 100k plus in heavy daily towing with no problems. In any event, with the proper synthetic, just drive your car, let the oil do its thing, and spend more time in your car, not under it.