A member here has been selling them for several months. You'll probably have to poke around the threads until you find him. Factory OEM in the Honda box from what I've read. I think they ship UPS.

-- Chuck

 

Looks like a good list to follow but I would add retorquing the rear axle nuts to Billman standard if they haven't already been done (search Billman's instructions in this regard on the Forums). Also apply by hand, rubbing in, a good coat of shin-etsu grease (available from Honda dealer) on all rubbers on the car including the axle and steering bellows/boots to keep them supple (If you find them torn or cracking, replace them). I shin-etsu the rubbers twice a year and "leatherique" (the product name) the leathers by hand (so you can feel the condition of the leathers) twice a year as well ( once when I put it to bed for the winter and as part of the prep in the spring). You should be pretty close to "back to new" by then!

 

This thread is devolving into the same content already well covered by the sticky thread, that covers things new owners should do and check.

Plz go there and find all the answers you need.

Meanwhile, on rear fender openings, we should make clear there are now two distinct products being discussed.

Originally we were discussing the rubber strips with metal core that seal onto rear fender lip (and that can promote rust if seal ever broken and strips reused).

More lately we're talking about Side Strakes. These are dealer installed optional aero mini spoiler type things that are applied to lower rear fender in front of wheel. These now sell used for upwards of $600, new in box around $1k.

There are ebay reps, sometimes available, painted, around $150.

 

I recently purchased a 2007 all original with <18,000 miles. I am 81 years old. I have owned an 04 and a 2008 CR. Got all my thrills out of the CR. This '07 will just be a Sunday cruiser and occasionaly a local show and Coffee and Cars participant.

 

To Car Analogy, actually on the matter of the rear wheel openings there are 3 products being discussed - the fender well lip trim, the side strakes and the rear fender liners for AP2's.

 

Thx for clarifying. I wanted to include these details so its more clear to anyone following the thread. Hopefully they can discern which of these 3 is being discussed in each post since its often unclear.

So many times in the past trying to learn about these cars, I'd be piecing together details from multiple threads. Shards of info, often unclear or ambiguous. The people in the thread understood but otherd following along easily might not.

We often tell people to search first before asking, but then threads with answer often require a certain level of knowledge to even understand.

I'm always picturing someone like I was then. New to this platform, trying to learn. Trying to understand the answer to a question, but its all murky and vague.

Maybe they even think they understood, but actually bc there is so much they don't know yet, they totally misunderstood.

Always thinking about that person, not just the people interacting in the thread.

 

Hi guys! Thanks for the replies! Really appreciate it. Looking back at my post, it was very NOOB and likely I should have done more research first. My apologies! But I did get lots of helpful info! Thanks :-)

Ah yes! Thanks for clarifying the technical terms.

So this would be the "Lip Trim". When you say there is a sealant applied on install, you're talking at the factory when they install these, they apply a sealant in the cavity of the trim, and then apply it to the wheel arch?
-What kind of sealant are we talking about when reinstalling it?
-If I remove these altogether, I'm not entirely clear on what the most solution for rock protection would be?

Seeing as there never was an OEM offering for either the AP1 or AP2 rear fender liners, then provided I don't regularily drive in rain or salt/dust controlled roads...I likely won't have any issues.

The few S2000's with rust I've seen are likely daily driven cars, that even in California, can develop rust like any Honda. Though I'd imagine the garage queens driven on sunday's and never in the rain will likely not see the rust issue ever. Does that sound about right???

How many hours of labour does a valve adjust usually run at the honda dealer? Is this something their speciality tech needs to do...or is it just like adjust the valves on a Honda CR-V as far as the tech experience level is concerned?

Only modification is actually that it has an aftermarket head unit, looks like so the previous owner could use his sat radio. I don't love the 90's look alpine head unit, but all factory radio controls (the ones left of the steering wheel) appear to work and the aftermarket head unit is supposed to offer better quality with the OEM honda speakers. A least I can keep the stereo cover closed and I don't have to look at it lol.

Will do!

This is what I was thinking. And to be honest, I'm surprised the factory unit is bolted in place as opposed to just 3m tape. I would feel like a criminal drilling a hole in any part of the s2k lol.

 

Valve adjustment must be done on a cold engine -- under 100°F. Folks here are highly doubtful a Honda dealer has any clue how to adjust valves on a 20-year old car. Honda motorcycle mechanic is a better choice. Plenty of information here including videos. On jackstands is recommended to save your back. Simple hand tools. Set aside a Saturday morning, grab a buddy, and do it yourself. Take your time.

-- Chuck

 

If you remove the lip trim altogether, the best alternative for rock protection would be new replacement lip trims with a bead of silicone squeezed into the opening of the trim before installing. Some of that will come out on the outside of the trim on the surface of the quarter panel - just wipe off with mineral spirits immediately. Some will ooze out on the inside of the lip. If you do a complete cleaning of the inside top of the lip and partially up the inside of the side wall (an inch or so) of the wheel well above the lip along the whole length of the lip, then you can augment whatever oozes out with additional silicone to completely fill the gap between the trim and the side wall and round off that with a finger to seal that space completely so that any water in the wheel well will flow out over top of the top side of the trim rather than down into the gap. Unfortunately this doesn't keep moisture away from the bolt that holds the front corner of the bumper to the quarter panel. That is where rust starts on UK vehicles from the galvanic action between the bolt and the quarter panel. But the trim is the best rock protection for the lip.

 

Good tips! Thanks.

My car is minty minty with zero rust (lucky me). It must have had a well kept life, void of any winter driving or excessive moisture.

That said, you mention the galvanic action between the bolt and the quarter panel. Is this bolt you mention visible? I'm assuming it's an M6x 20 or similar. What about replacing the bolt with a stainless steel one, or even the a nylon bolt with the same thread/size. Would that eliminate the galvanic action?