No VTEC Til 600 Miles -- Necessary?
I kept mine below VTEC until 1000km (600 miles and then went straight into VTEC on the way home from the dealer 1000k oil change and service.
For the first few times I went into VTEC there was a definite power drop right before VTEC kicked in - I am assuming this was due to the sliding cams experiencing some stickiness as they had previously not performed this action before. It stayed this way for the next 1000k until it disapperared completely.
My main concern was that when I picked up the vehicle it had around 70 pre delivery kms (40 miles). I don't know what the dealer had done with it during this time - I just hope it wasn't demo drives with VTEC being used.
For the first few times I went into VTEC there was a definite power drop right before VTEC kicked in - I am assuming this was due to the sliding cams experiencing some stickiness as they had previously not performed this action before. It stayed this way for the next 1000k until it disapperared completely.
My main concern was that when I picked up the vehicle it had around 70 pre delivery kms (40 miles). I don't know what the dealer had done with it during this time - I just hope it wasn't demo drives with VTEC being used.
Originally posted by cdelena:
That it very interesting, and the first I have heard of it. I have not even read a rumor of this through procedure.. where do you get your information and has it ever been confirmed?
I was pretty sure my engine was very green when I first got it and would have bet that it was not run to any extent before delivery.
That it very interesting, and the first I have heard of it. I have not even read a rumor of this through procedure.. where do you get your information and has it ever been confirmed?
I was pretty sure my engine was very green when I first got it and would have bet that it was not run to any extent before delivery.
Make no mistake, I have a great deal of respect for you, you seem to be a very techincal person and know exactly what you are talking about, but the general public knows little of these things...so I do not expect you to just believe me. Go to the Honda plant here in the US and they will give you a great tour and expell some secrets as well...those guys dream of working at the T-factory in Japan. The LA auto show will also net some interesting little known facts should you choose to attend, there are always factory reps on hand.
Andrew
[quote]Originally posted by S2Kguy:
I am not questioning that you were told that is how it is done, just wondering if you got a totally accurate story. I don
Originally posted by cdelena:
...so I do not expect you to just believe me.
...so I do not expect you to just believe me.
Originally posted by Sev:
This is why some owners have slower cars although it is hard to prove.
This is why some owners have slower cars although it is hard to prove.
Well, mine made 207hp, and 137lb-ft at 5k miles, so I doubt going into vtec occassionally has anything to do with slower/faster. probably more the driver knowing how to abuse the car more than another driver than it is the car itself.
[B]
Andrew,
You are aware that the NSX 3.2 DOES have fiber-reinforced (FRM) cylinder liners vs. the S2000 which has FRM cylinder walls, aren't you?
Originally posted by S2Kguy:
Also, think about the tech in this car, I mean, even the mighty NSX does not have carbon-fibre reinforced cylinder walls.
Also, think about the tech in this car, I mean, even the mighty NSX does not have carbon-fibre reinforced cylinder walls.
You are aware that the NSX 3.2 DOES have fiber-reinforced (FRM) cylinder liners vs. the S2000 which has FRM cylinder walls, aren't you?
I grew up around Porsches, and many people in that crowd go by the philosophy "The car will drive like it is broken in." It's purely anecdotal that gently driven Porsches don't perform as well, but that thought does have influence on me. Plus, this was quite a while ago and who knows how similar Porsche's build process back then is to Honda's today.
But I have a little theory of mine, too. If during break in you're not supposed to drive at constant rpms for long periods of time, thereby implying that different engine speeds put different stresses on the engine, wouldn't it make sense that the engine needs to be broken in for the entire rpm range?
So here's what I did - several times I ran the engine up to redline, usually under medium load but sometimes under full throttle. I did the same thing with the GSR I had for 47k miles. Neither the S2000 nor the GSR have had any motor troubles whatsoever. Plus, my car made three or four peak hp over another on the same dyno (although different days.) The difference in the lower VTEC range was even more significant. I definitely don't have any performance problems on track straights compared to other S2000's either. I rag on the car fairly heavily nearly every day I drive it.
However, after a little over 4000mi, the oil level is down to just above the "L" on the dip stick. (Yeah, it's definitely time to change the oil. Plus I plan on doing the transmission fluid, differential fluid, 1.5/2 degree negative camber alignment, and x-brace for the Feb TWS event...) Does that hatched area on the dipstick correspond to a full quart? Is that how far down I am on oil?
But I have a little theory of mine, too. If during break in you're not supposed to drive at constant rpms for long periods of time, thereby implying that different engine speeds put different stresses on the engine, wouldn't it make sense that the engine needs to be broken in for the entire rpm range?
So here's what I did - several times I ran the engine up to redline, usually under medium load but sometimes under full throttle. I did the same thing with the GSR I had for 47k miles. Neither the S2000 nor the GSR have had any motor troubles whatsoever. Plus, my car made three or four peak hp over another on the same dyno (although different days.) The difference in the lower VTEC range was even more significant. I definitely don't have any performance problems on track straights compared to other S2000's either. I rag on the car fairly heavily nearly every day I drive it.
However, after a little over 4000mi, the oil level is down to just above the "L" on the dip stick. (Yeah, it's definitely time to change the oil. Plus I plan on doing the transmission fluid, differential fluid, 1.5/2 degree negative camber alignment, and x-brace for the Feb TWS event...) Does that hatched area on the dipstick correspond to a full quart? Is that how far down I am on oil?




