Is there a particular EMU that is better than another? I am guessing it isn't just plug and play? I am going to need to find a reputable tuner?

 

You will need to find a reputable tuner. And the AEM EMS is recommended above all the others:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=396907

Should probably also look into 550cc injectors.

 

Just a side comment. NO2 is illegal here in VA. Not that that stops anyone.

I was under the impression that NO2 just required mechanical management. The right nozzles for fuel and N02 to get the right mixture? What would the EMS and 550 injectors buy you? You're going to be on it for seconds at most right? 10-15 seconds tops?

Having to use the AEM and larger injectors seems to defeat the purpose of NO2 which is a cheap boost when you need it and stock ECU and performance for the other 99.9% of the time you're driving. If I went down that road, I'd just want to take it the next step to turbo or super.

Most of you guys don't have to pass emissions tests?

 

You can run it with the standard wet kit, that works fine for many users. The AEM EMS just offers a larger level of safety as well as other features to control the spray.

 

What is the part called that allows you to spray at a certain predetermined RPM?

 

window switch

 

Do you have any idea approximately how many additional horses can be gained with a 50 shot?

 

50 hp

 

I wasn't aware that the "shot" was directly related to the horsepower output. Thanks

 

If you have 4.77 you should be able to beat the 350z no problem upto 100 mph by a couple or more car lenghts.

Since in a race you are always above vtec except for the start (with a launch you are almost always above vtec) nitrous is really not great for low end. When you spray I would say be above 4000 rpm. Spraying on the low end can cause damage.

Hence the window switch. These come in various forms. Basically it reads your rpms and will only allow you to spray between certin rpms.

For example, set the window to 4000 rpm to say 8500 rpm (for ap-1) cut at 8500 rpm so just incase you hit the rev limiter and the ecu cuts the fuel......

AEM is nice. Sure it will give you added security. It is nice because you can retard the timing. Its not needed but does add security. It can also enable you to do a bigger shot above 75 hp. But then you would need bigger fuel pump and injectors.

Most wet kits with a 75 shot does not need bigger injectors but a bigger fuel pump add security but not needed for 75 and under. Most wet kits mix the fuel and the nitrous 6 inches in front of your throttle body. Dry kits use the stock ecu and some gizmo and the stock injecors to add more fuel. Not sure at what point the stock injectors reach there max output.

Nitrous laws depend on the state. In NJ you need a permit. Get caught without a permit and the nitrous and I believe its considered a controlled dangerous substance. Just like COKE~~~~~~~ Every state is different.

For a budget of 1000 or less a nice system can be installed by yourself. But the gas is like 4 to 5 bucks a pound at least where I live. $40 to 50 bucks to fill a 10lb bottle.

A must imho is this:

1.NX wet kit with shark nozzel (comes with switches, fuel and nitrous solenoids, 10 lb empty bottle, braided "AN" lines and hardware and throttle body activated switch
which with the system on will active the system when you are full throttle) also comes with fuel and nitrous line sealer for the connections.

2."AN" fittings to replace NX fuel "T" (three pieces, two are barbed to go into the jelly soft fuel line. The third is a "T" piece in which the other ends of the barbed fittings screw into and the fuel line screws into to that goes to the fuel pressure cut off.

3.Fuel pressure cut off (small piece that goes in-line with the fuel line. This enables the system to shut off as soon as there is no fuel pressure. So you can't spray with engine off and so on, avialable from NX)

4.Bottle blanket ( Get one that turns on and off by pressure not heat)

5. new plugs that are one step colder (Not platnium)

6. pressure gauge (you have to know what pressure the bottle is at)

purge is nice but not needed, gives that hammer hit but is very hard on the wrist pins and bearings.

Use a sodering iron and heat shrink at all connections. Do not use teflon tape on any of the plumbing.

Good luck!