Marble in a jar! Exactly!

I ended up picking up the full OEM hardtop set of hardware from a seller on Craigslist... I was actually about to pull the trigger on either the Forbidden OE replica hardtop brackets, or the set from Rockstar Garage... But this OEM set came on the market for a pretty decent price and I decided that I would go OEM since the opportunity was there... It came with almost everything...was missing the brushes (which I will probably purchase at the hardtop guy)...it also came with an extra set of front hardtop latches that I will probably list on eBay to do some cost recovery...

I swear...if I have to screw around adjusting that hardtop again I think I will go mad!

Unfortunately, with all the on and off, loosening and tightening of all the bolts, I managed to strip the threads of one of the holes in the roof itself...it's made of aluminum and I am pretty sure it was a cross-threading issue (as opposed to over torquing)... Fortunately, the roof holds fine with two screws... at some point I may re-tap with one size up threads, or use a self-tapping screw to secure it further...but for now, I am avoiding touching it!!!

 

^ I've spent more time adjusting hardtops than almost anyone - oem and Mugen. I've had quite a bit of rattles on the oem and Mugen hardtop latches. I've also had creaking/flex noise on the Mugen carbon fiber hardtop.

Increasing Tension of Front Latches
To tighten up tension on the front latches, remove oem shims from under the latches. There are three 1mm shims per latch, remove shims as needed to tighten tension. If you still need more tension after all shims are removed you can also add washers under the front strikers, which also increases latch tension further.

Reducing Front Latches From Rattling on Themselves
To keep the front latches from rattling on themselves, install a chunk of foam inside the latch, this keeps constant pressure on the clamshell so it doesn't rattle on the interior bar. I used a foam tire sidewall cleaning pad that I cut up into chunks, make the chunk taller than the latch so when it closes you have constant pressure on it. See pic below.

Reducing Creaking and Flexing of Carbon Fiber Tops That Use OEM Rear Latches
To fix creaking of the hardtop, you shim the rear latch area slightly higher during the adjustment process, so it is adjusted a tad higher so you have less tension when the latches are tightened down. You shim it up using simple items found in your home - I used one of those rectangular pencils combined with a bit of cardboard to get the hardtop raised with the rear latch bolts loose, then tighten the latch bolts once the top is shimmed higher. It's a balance between raising the top a bit higher to reduce flex and creaking, but not too high to induce increased rattles. See pic of ghetto shimming procedure below.

Foam chunk inside clamshell of front latch




Shimming rear latch area during adjustment process to reduce hardtop flex / creaking on carbon fiber and FRP hardtops :

 

Nice tips zeroptzero... It is sad that these accessories have forced some of us to invest so much time in adjusting and finicking with our hardtops... I get that sometimes aftermarket stuff is "buyer beware", but when you get the factory accessories and brackets, it should fit with less drama... I don't even mind some adjustments here and there...I realize that each car has different minor tolerance levels here and there...but it just seems like I've had to wrestle with the adjustments way too much...

I like your suggestion on removing some/all of the shims underneath the front latches... I didn't realize that the shims were even there... I may need to have a look underneath, since I bought my roof in the secondhand market...the shims may or may not still be there...

For those of you thinking about adding shims underneath the strikers, or removing them from the latches, please be careful not to tighten and lower the front too low...You might catch the window when you close the door!!! This is a big deal, so be careful.

My latches don't rattle themselves, so I don't need to worry about using foam or other insulation to prevent any rattling there...

I silenced my hardtop installation a couple of weeks ago (when I installed my newly acquired OEM catchers)...I haven't taken it out for any long drives, so I am crossing my fingers that my ride remains as silent as it is now (from a hardtop perspective that is)...

 

Can someone take a photo of where their hardtop meets the trunk on the back side? Like the gap to the body panel?

Didn't mean to jack the thread, but figured it is relevant to the topic.

Thanks!

 

FYI, the window can be adjusted down a bit, it's a fairly easy process too!

 

I'll try and grab a photo tonight when I get home from work... You want a close up of the center rear where the bottom or the hardtop meets the car body, correct?

 

Yes on my OEM hardtop the window was rubbing on the passenger side, I just adjusted the window stop so the window doesn't go up as far as it normally would. Just a fraction of an inch is all that was needed.

One other tip for anyone with a hardtop - always release tension on the top by opening the latches when jacking up any part of the chassis. Flex in the chassis can cause the hardtop to go out of adjustment, that can be frustrating after you get it all set up perfectly and then find that it goes out of adjustment shortly afterwards. Always release tension on the rear latches first, then the front latches, when closing it up always close the front latches first followed by the rear latches.

 

 

Yes on my OEM hardtop the window was rubbing on the passenger side, I just adjusted the window stop so the window doesn't go up as far as it normally would. Just a fraction of an inch is all that was needed.

One other tip for anyone with a hardtop - always release tension on the top by opening the latches when jacking up any part of the chassis. Flex in the chassis can cause the hardtop to go out of adjustment, that can be frustrating after you get it all set up perfectly and then find that it goes out of adjustment shortly afterwards. Always release tension on the rear latches first, then the front latches, when closing it up always close the front latches first followed by the rear latches.
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I actually learned this the hard way when I first got my Mugen installed. I ended up jacking the car up sideways and it shifted so much that if I didnt look b4 I closed the door I would have slammed it and damaged the corner. I went and tightened it all up and its been good since.
I however unlock the latches and then the rear and lock it down in reverse order(back first, then the front latches) I always felt that when you tightened the back down first and tried to latch down the front it would pull too hard and would make all sorts of creeking noises that I only attempted it once that way.

 

This makes a lot of sense... I never knew that... I have jacked up my car from the center/front to change the oil, but that's about it... Never had any ill effects on my hardtop adjustment, but I can absolutely see how it could happen... I am going to be much more careful in the future!!!

Good to know the recommended order on latching and unlatching the hardtop... I never saw anything official on the matter, so this is good to know... Is there some logic behind this order?