I installed solid bolt-in front latches. STFU, OEM hard top, STFU.

Although, now I'm intrigued to try your method of removing shims and/or adding spacers to the strikers, Zero. The only reason I would want the OEM latches is to easily detach the top. It hasn't been off the car in like...a year or more. The car is in storage currently. Maybe in the spring/summer, I'll get the craving to go on a "top down" drive and reinstall the OEM front latches, sans shims, while I'm at it.

But to answer OP's question...my top fits snug to the front with no gap. Its just a matter of adjusting it.

 

How well do the solid bolt-in front latches work? Flawless?

I would rather have easy latches in the rear and fixed in the front than the other way around... The front latches are highly accessible...and if they get rid of noise reliably (without having to adjust and re-adjust), I may consider doing that...

 

I've been using the alloycraft one peice locking front brackets and finally just ordered hardtop latches and strikers to try. I have a suspicion that with one piece brackets it is difficult to get the top pushed forward enough so that the gap is tight. I know that the oem latches actually pull the top closer windshield frame. I've never been happy with the fit of my top around the rear of the windows and I'm hoping the oem latches will help with that

 

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That's a good tight fit from the back...

 

The paint on my car is immaculate... But you wouldn't know from the photo... I think the flash or the lighting is reflecting in the metallic paint or something...

 

there's a bunch of measurements in the HELMS manual for how to properly seat the hardtop.

 

the measurements are also in the hardtop installation link I posted in my earlier reply within this thread.

 

the Helms has a measurement for how much lower the front should sit below the windshield/A frame line, which yours lacks.

 

the Helms has a measurement for how much lower the front should sit below the windshield/A frame line, which yours lacks.
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Care to share that number?

I remember when I installed my OEM hardtop (bought brand new) years ago, I followed the numbers that I found on here for the rear adjustment and had a lot of wind noise so I just left the front latched down, loosened the rear bolts, and then tightened them when with the hardtop naturally resting. Right or wrong, that made the rear look like MikeekiM's photo. I pop my HT on and off probably more than most people with HTs and a year or two after that last adjustment, I'd get creaking going over very uneven pavement (like turning in/out of a sloped driveway).

Was it easy for you guys to take off the front latches to get to the shims? A few years back, I tried to take one of the bolts off to install security screws that came with my HT locks but they were on really tight and the head looked like it was about to strip so I gave up. I'd like to bring the front of the HT down since it seems to sit quite high to the point where it feels like the front latches aren't even doing anything to tighten it (even though there is no rattle or play when I try to move it around while latched down).

 

the hardtop should sit 1.2mm below the frame line.

as for your creaking problems, i'd start with replacing the strikers. IMO, the strikers are a wear item. If you latch/unlatch your hardtop/softop often, the strikers wear out since they're only aluminum. After i put new strikers in, my top is dead silent and the latches fit SUPER tight.