At this point, you should probably keep the oil that you have in the car for 3000 miles, then switch to 10W30 synthetic. These oils are perfectly compatible with each other, and you'll have better protection with 10W30.

I don't disagree with what Road Rage says about the viscosity of the oil at temperature, but at ambient temperature 10W30 is more viscous. According to several oil manufacturers, less oil will drip down to the oilpan, and therefore there will be less wear on your engine when you start the car.

 

If you want to run synthetic, then change it yourself or take them the oil. You can buy a case of oil from a store (even Autozone) for less than a dealer or body shop will charge.

If you get the futoma oil valve from Rick's then you can change your own oil without having to get under the car (except the first time when you need to install the valve.)

 

It's very easy to do yourself. Search for xviper's how-to.

 

I buy my own oil - Castrol GTX 10W-30 and have a local mechanic put it in for 15 bux and I watch him the whole time.

Sincerely,
s2oooFassst.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by slalom44
[B]At this point, you should probably keep the oil that you have in the car for 3000 miles, then switch to 10W30 synthetic. These oils are perfectly compatible with each other, and you'll have better protection with 10W30.

I don't disagree with what Road Rage says about the viscosity of the oil at temperature, but at ambient temperature 10W30 is more viscous.

 

I did mine at a jiffy lube once cause i was in a hurry. they put in synth without asking and i complined so they only charged me regular. didn't make em swap it cause it was pretty close to 10,000. They wanted like $56 for the syn. also.

 

at 10k there should no issue of break-in - the rings will be set. and any further bedding-in will still happen with synoil, albeit over a longer time period. If your oil consumption is stable (consistent), then break-in is done.

 

I can't find the information about oil viscosity I've read before, but here is some interesting information from http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/driving/a...91/article.html Since 10W30 has a lower viscosity spread (difference beween the low and the high number), then this would be the most desirable. This article also has some good information on the virtues of synthetic oil.

 

It would be interesting it were accurate, and pertinent, which it is not.

Synoils generally require no VI improvers - and the VI improvers in use in mineral oils are much more shear stable than even those of a few years ago. Edmunds knows jack about lubrication.

 

I'm a little confused, somebody please straighten me out. I got 5w 30 syn put in today, should I change to something else next time or stay the same? I dont want to hurt my engine and would like to do what i'm supposed to do. Also come winter time, what type of oil should I be using? Anyone that is willing to help me out would be great!!!

Greg