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i painted mine two times
first was yellow....the yellow was great, but it didnt match my car that well....some like it though
second was blue....the bluew was awesome!! i used MCB blue, with extra clear coats, and its amazing!
Jason, I most certainly reccomend taking the time to sand/grind/file the casting and pot marks (as Hockey also mentioned) for an exceptional result. To answer your other question, I have had my G2 system on for about 1 1/2 yrs now and a good 12-15k miles. They still look like new paint
Another tip is to pull at least the front caliper bolt (very easy) so the pads can be removed and you don't have to mess with trying to tape that area off (what a pain!). The rears looked a little more complicated so I didn't take them out, but some say it is a simple proceedure as well.
Not sure what everyone else is doing with the rears since the size that works best has a slight curve. I put the smallest set on the thin "bar" since it was the only flat spot available. It looks great and the curve doesn't bother at all.
Now on the second set I did for a friend, I asked him to request that decalgal send the set just as before but with the smallest set with no curve (straight ) . She did this without question and no extra charge. It also works just a bit better on that rear "bar" for the rear caliper.
Just thought I would mention it since I haven't seen it come up before.
Now if you could just take some high heat paint and touch up the OEM black paint around the hub, it would look perfect
Also, removing the front caliper bolt/pads would avoid the paint on the pads and make the taping work easier.
(not a flame on you, just FYI for future caliper painters )
I agree. The rotors look bad, but are not as noticeable with the wheels on. I may touch up the hubs. I painted these with the calipers on so I expected a few tiny errors.