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Passenger rear wheel help!

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Old Nov 1, 2024 | 04:09 PM
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Default Passenger rear wheel help!

Hello, I have an ap1. Just swapped some Fortune 500 coils to my s2k. Set the rear driver and passenger coil overs the same but when I drop the car the rear passenger had some negative camber on it. It previously was like that already because the previous owner had some lowering springs on them. I adjusted the camber on the control arm and brought it in a much as it could but it still towed out. Also it’s about an inch or so lower than the driver. I measured the coils and they’re both the same so idk why it’s still cambered like that. Any ideas?
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Old Nov 1, 2024 | 04:37 PM
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From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
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Originally Posted by rsumpay
Hello, I have an ap1. Just swapped some Fortune 500 coils to my s2k. Set the rear driver and passenger coil overs the same but when I drop the car the rear passenger had some negative camber on it. It previously was like that already because the previous owner had some lowering springs on them. I adjusted the camber on the control arm and brought it in a much as it could but it still towed out. Also it’s about an inch or so lower than the driver. I measured the coils and they’re both the same so idk why it’s still cambered like that. Any ideas?
Did you clock all the bushings when you lowered it?

Do you have any photos of the issue?

Are you measuring the ride height on FLAT ground after driving it a little bit to shake it out?
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Old Nov 1, 2024 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by B serious
Did you clock all the bushings when you lowered it?

Do you have any photos of the issue?

Are you measuring the ride height on FLAT ground after driving it a little bit to shake it out?
I can take some photos tmrw. I noticed that it was cambered out when It had the old wheels on there. I just swapped it out with some new wheels also. I’m measuring ride height on flat ground, I haven’t driven it yet. I’m still doing the fronts. Nah I didn’t clock the bushings at all, my first time doing coilovers
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Old Nov 2, 2024 | 04:39 AM
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From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
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You should clock all the bushings as good practice.

Front:
UCA to body
LCA to subframe
LCA to shock

Rear:
UCA to subframe
LCA to subframe (2 spots per side)
LCA to shock
Toe arm to subframe

Pro tip for next time. The removal of the stock shocks would have been 600000X easier if you had just loosened the bushing bolts first, to allow the arms to droop. You wouldn't have had to use pry bars or sitting on the prybar or any other dangerous medieval method you used.

The procedure I use for coilovers:

Set the shock length how you think you want. Don't spend too much time on the first try. Just make a good guess, but do set the shocks across each axle evenly. Write down your measurements.

Set the car down off the stands. Drive the car maybe 100ft or so.

give it a ride height check on flat ground.

Write down how much ride height change you want.

After that, if you need to make adjustments....here is a cheat code for any year S2000

Any height changes you make at the front shock length will result in a 1.69X change at ride height. Example...a 1" height change at the shock will change the ride height by 1.69"

Any height changes you make at the rear shock length will result in a 1.73" change at ride height.

I use perch turns to determine how much height I'm changing at the shock. Make a dot on the perch with a marker. Then count your turns. For Fortune Auto, 1 full 360 deg perch turn = 2mm shock length change. So if you want to change the shock length by 1" (26mm), you make 13 turns.

Its important to clock bushings to a new height after any drastic changes. If you decide tomorrow that you want to change your ride height by 1" or something, then you should re-clock your bushings.



Last edited by B serious; Nov 2, 2024 at 04:48 AM.
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Old Nov 2, 2024 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by B serious
You should clock all the bushings as good practice.

Front:
UCA to body
LCA to subframe
LCA to shock

Rear:
UCA to subframe
LCA to subframe (2 spots per side)
LCA to shock
Toe arm to subframe

Pro tip for next time. The removal of the stock shocks would have been 600000X easier if you had just loosened the bushing bolts first, to allow the arms to droop. You wouldn't have had to use pry bars or sitting on the prybar or any other dangerous medieval method you used.

The procedure I use for coilovers:

Set the shock length how you think you want. Don't spend too much time on the first try. Just make a good guess, but do set the shocks across each axle evenly. Write down your measurements.

Set the car down off the stands. Drive the car maybe 100ft or so.

give it a ride height check on flat ground.

Write down how much ride height change you want.

After that, if you need to make adjustments....here is a cheat code for any year S2000

Any height changes you make at the front shock length will result in a 1.69X change at ride height. Example...a 1" height change at the shock will change the ride height by 1.69"

Any height changes you make at the rear shock length will result in a 1.73" change at ride height.

I use perch turns to determine how much height I'm changing at the shock. Make a dot on the perch with a marker. Then count your turns. For Fortune Auto, 1 full 360 deg perch turn = 2mm shock length change. So if you want to change the shock length by 1" (26mm), you make 13 turns.

Its important to clock bushings to a new height after any drastic changes. If you decide tomorrow that you want to change your ride height by 1" or something, then you should re-clock your bushings.
cool thank you for that!! I did all that. I adjusted the driver rear 1/4. Did all the steps. Measure from the axle nut to the fender the driver rear is like an inch difference from the passenger. Treaded body on the driver rear is 2 and a half. The passenger is 2 and 1/4. Idk why that side is an inch off.
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