mad-dog-one, I think you've got it mixed up... the install manual says to latch the front strikers first, and then the back levers last... I'm looking at the manual right now

 

So sorry, my fingers don't always type what I'm trying to say. In the words of Rose Ann roesanna Dana ... "nevermind."

Good Luck

 

I don't think you need the manual to tell you that the front first is better (sorry, I can't help it)

Back to topic. I also found that unlatching and re-latching the hardtop after 2-3 weeks really helps with minimizing the squeaks. I think the rubber seal shifts as you drive it, after awhile you need to unlatch and lift the top up to let the rubber straighten out and then latch it up again.

 

OK, Just in case the installation instructions are not clear to some, this is what I see it as saying (and I'm paraphrasing since there's no sense in using the same words if those words aren't understood in the first place):
The front catches (on the windshield) and the front top latches are basically "unadjustable". Therefore, these are used as the reference "anchors" and thus, need to be done up first.
The "receivers" that are mounted on the sides of the car (the things that you had to pound the crap out of the car first before installing) are also bolted on SOLID as they too, are not really adjustable. Which, then leaves the pointy latch things that are on the hardtop itself. These ARE adjustable.
You put the hardtop on the car with the pointy things in there respective holes in the receivers (latches in the UNLOCKED position). The top latches are still only loosely fasten and can move around quite freely. DO NOT LOCK THEM IN! Then you lock down the FRONT latches to the windshield. You make sure that the mating edges between the front of the hardtop and the windshield top are evenly held down, relatively well centered left to right (put the side windows up to see that they meet up with the top well and evenly). If not, you have done something wrong. You may not have the rear pointy things in their holes correctly.
Once you have confirmed that the latched fronts make the top sit pretty well, you can begin to tighten up the rear latch bolts evenly and in stages. (A hint they may not tell you: It helps to have someone apply a slight bit of pressure down onto the rear window while you tighten up these latches on both sides.)
Once you have the bolts snug and all seems well so far, go back and do the final torquing of all the rear latch bolts.
NOW, lock down the rear latches. This will pull the top down and compress the rear seal in the proper fashion. The top should now be able to withstand time as the seal gets more and more "quishy" as the years go by.
At this point, you can install all the interior trim pieces to cover the rear top latches.

Now come on, it wasn't that hard, was it?

 

thanx xviper, that is what I did and sounds very simple.

"The front catches (on the windshield) and the front top latches are basically "unadjustable". Therefore, these are used as the reference "anchors" and thus, need to be done up first."

the latches are unadjustable, but even when its lokced down to the catches, the hardtop can still move around quit abit(left, right, forward, backward). if the HT sits alittle forward than normal, the lock-down will be loose and when you drive, it will rattles. So, does that mean you need to put the hardtop as backward to the rear as possible before you tighten the rear latch bolts?

that is the reason why ask if you guy do up the front or rear first. I find that if you do the rear up first, then do the front, the front will be tight and no rattles.

 

[QUOTE=MC21,Apr 5 2005, 09:39 AM] the latches are unadjustable, but even when its lokced down to the catches, the hardtop can still move around quit abit(left, right, forward, backward).

 

thanx xviper. thanx for the help~!

eric from vancouver

 

Let's meet up in July. Would love to see your car. Check out the West Coast meet thread in your local forum for details.

 

I have a slight issue with my top. When fitting it, to get the passenger side front edge of the top to sit in place, I have to push back on the window frame (pushing towards the rear of the car) before it pops in. I guess this means the pin which slots into the hole behind the passenger is too far forward. I get a bit of wind noise from that side of the top so I think this is what is causing it. Can anyone recommend what adjustments to make?

 

I believe you are correct about the rear pins.
Remove the side plastic trim to expose the top pin assemblies. You may as well unlatch the fronts for this. Now, fully unlatch the rear catches and loosen all the pin assemble bracket bolts (both sides) just enough so the brackets and top can move around free from each other.
Now go latch the fronts. This "should" pull the top forward and compress the windshield rubber seal somewhat. If it doesn't, you've most likely permanently warped the top from having it locked down for so long while being "stretched".
Hopefully, the top will pull forward adequately. Now, while someone else applies gentle downward pressure on the rear of the hardtop, tighten the bolts back up in stages evenly from side to side until they are fully torqued down.
Now, lock down the rear latches. With a little luck, this should make your top sit the way it's supposed to. If so, replace the trim. If not, you'll have to do a bunch of these ...........................
ps. By this time, it is also possible that the windshield striker plates have gotten loose from being yanked on more than normal. Grab them and see if there is any play. If so, you'll need to expose them, remove the screws, put Loctite on them and put them back in securely.