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16x6.5 = +55mm (e.g. stock) [minimum of +50mm]
17x7.5 = +52mm (e.g. Mugen MF10)
18x7.5 = +50mm [minimum of +48mm]
18x7 = +48mm
18x8 = +53mm (e.g. WORK MEISTER S2R)
Rear:
16x7.5 = +65mm (e.g. stock) [minimum of +60mm]
17x8.5 = +59mm (e.g. Mugen MF10)
18x8.5 = +55mm [minium of +50mm]
18x9 = +60mm (e.g. WORK MEISTER S2R)
18x9.5 = +65mm
The above offsets are my recommended specifications for good fitment when the S2000 is lowered or not. If the S2000 owner does not plan to lower the car, the offset can be a little less.
Remember that the slight differences from standard will cause errors in the odometer and speedometer. One other note: Wheel OFFSET [Factory] (to accommodate the brake assemble) is +55mm front; +65mm rear. [Luis from Lisbon with 17 7.5F/8.5R did an offset of +52mm front; +59mm rear (but said it was tight!)]
Ok, this is the stock offset and the information found on S2000 international,
I am running T37's ( 16 inch) which has an offset of +
42MM. They work great but according to this information it is not sufficient?
can someone please explain the pros and cons to this +42 MM?
There is a bit of misleading info in the offset FAQ.
OK, here goes....
Speaking about offset here....?
Remember that the slight differences from standard will cause errors in the odometer and speedometer.
Only tire diameter changes will cause odo and speedo errors, not offset changes. Offset changes the position or relationship of the wheel center to its rim halves which changes a dimension call "scrub radius" and can also get your inner and outer rim halves in a position to rub something.
Wheel OFFSET [Factory] (to accommodate the brake assemble) is +55mm front; +65mm rear. [Luis from Lisbon with 17 7.5F/8.5R did an offset of +52mm front; +59mm rear (but said it was tight!)]
The offset is not to clear the brakes, that is a function of the design of the rim center. I could have essentially any offset rim I wanted if the rim center was designed to clear the caliper. The designers of the S2000 chose the offsets they did to help achieve the very desirable "in wheel suspension" as it is called, which places the upper and lower ball joints entirely within the wheel. You must have high offset wheels to achieve this. A pic below....
So if you have less offset than stock, but the same rim width (you didn't give the width) you're moving the rim halves to the outside of the car in relation to the rim center. This increases scrub radius and this generally will not help handling. But, YMMV.
please explain this?
