Poll: Multi-color windscreen lights with brake and reverse
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Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Columbia, MD
One issue solved. I don't know why I thought it would be so difficult...I redesigned the system to cut power to the green and blue LEDs.
So, dial in the color you want with the three pots. When you hit the brake, the red LEDs go to full intensity and the green and blue LEDs turn off, resulting in full-intensity, pure red.
I could do the reverse light white setup, but due to space constraints some of the system would have to reside outside of the windscreen assembly, and there would also be more than 4 wires going to it. If I drop the reverse setup altogether, the connection drops to 3 wires.
The colors coming off of that windscreen seem exceptionally bright (or is it a time-delay pic?)...did you use LEDs or bulbs? If LEDs, any idea how many mcd each one was? How many did you use? Did you drill into the edge of the screen to get a better dispersion pattern?
So, dial in the color you want with the three pots. When you hit the brake, the red LEDs go to full intensity and the green and blue LEDs turn off, resulting in full-intensity, pure red.
I could do the reverse light white setup, but due to space constraints some of the system would have to reside outside of the windscreen assembly, and there would also be more than 4 wires going to it. If I drop the reverse setup altogether, the connection drops to 3 wires.
The colors coming off of that windscreen seem exceptionally bright (or is it a time-delay pic?)...did you use LEDs or bulbs? If LEDs, any idea how many mcd each one was? How many did you use? Did you drill into the edge of the screen to get a better dispersion pattern?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Columbia, MD
Because simple is just that...simple. If someone offered you an S2000 for $28,000, but also offered you a reliable performance package that gave another 100 hp for $10 more, wouldn't you take it?
My point is, the difference between a simple white/red setup and one where each user can individualize the look to their taste (even if their taste changes overnight) is minimal, but the advantages are obviously much bigger. The windscreen still needs to come apart, wires still need to be strung, etc. So why not get the maximum benefit for a few extra dollars? If you choose to have white/red, turn all LEDs to equal intensities for white, and the red will still activate when you hit the brakes.
I can't wait for the new parts to arrive so I can play around. I'm curious to see how the UV will look (time to take a trip to Spencers
) My fingers are crossed they work out...
My point is, the difference between a simple white/red setup and one where each user can individualize the look to their taste (even if their taste changes overnight) is minimal, but the advantages are obviously much bigger. The windscreen still needs to come apart, wires still need to be strung, etc. So why not get the maximum benefit for a few extra dollars? If you choose to have white/red, turn all LEDs to equal intensities for white, and the red will still activate when you hit the brakes.
I can't wait for the new parts to arrive so I can play around. I'm curious to see how the UV will look (time to take a trip to Spencers
) My fingers are crossed they work out...
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Franklin MA
Macgyver - I love option one 
as mentioned the driver won't see the white when backing up so to me it's not worth the extra expene, time , and space.
one ? do they have yellow leds if not white would work and then red when the brake is applied..
Can my car be used as the Test Car? 
as mentioned the driver won't see the white when backing up so to me it's not worth the extra expene, time , and space.one ? do they have yellow leds
if not white would work and then red when the brake is applied.. Can my car be used as the Test Car?
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From: Columbia, MD
I will most likely have to do the install myself, which means shipping. Although the wiring itself is pretty much self-contained, getting everything situated in the correct place is going to be tricky...not to mention the fact that there may be a requirement to drill holes in the bottom edge of the screen for better light dispersion. I could certainly send out the entire wire loom as a kit, but I doubt anyone would want the hassle of untangling it all, drilling the screen at the correct places, installing the LEDs, and running the wires.
Thread Starter
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From: Columbia, MD
Steve,
No need for yellow LEDs...with the red green and blue in there, you can make whatever color you want (within limits) just by adjusting the intensity of each. Look at it this way, televisions only emit three colors of light...red, green, and blue, and they pretty much cover the entire color spectrum, so the LEDs will be no different.
Pure yellow is red and green mixed together with no blue, so turn the blue down and crank up the red and green. When you hit the brakes, the green will turn off and the red will shine alone.
No need for yellow LEDs...with the red green and blue in there, you can make whatever color you want (within limits) just by adjusting the intensity of each. Look at it this way, televisions only emit three colors of light...red, green, and blue, and they pretty much cover the entire color spectrum, so the LEDs will be no different.
Pure yellow is red and green mixed together with no blue, so turn the blue down and crank up the red and green. When you hit the brakes, the green will turn off and the red will shine alone.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Columbia, MD
Some news...
In trying to source parts for this, I really needed to pin down the electrical characteristics...power ratings, component size, etc. If I assume 6 LEDs of each color at 20 mA/LED, I'm looking at a bit over 1W/color (@10V), so each potentiometer that adjusts the intensity for each color needs to handle this much power. Components with this power handling capability are either big (too big to fit them all inside the casing) or expensive ($60 for 3 pots
).
Obviously the choice here is to go big and inexpensive. This means there will be a "block" of components external to the windscreen (about 1 cubic inch, give or take), which will include the necessary relays and pots. So, it'll have 3 wires coming into the "block" (power, ground, and brake), and 4 wires from the "block" to the screen (power, red signal, green signal, blue signal).
Comments/suggestions/ideas?
In trying to source parts for this, I really needed to pin down the electrical characteristics...power ratings, component size, etc. If I assume 6 LEDs of each color at 20 mA/LED, I'm looking at a bit over 1W/color (@10V), so each potentiometer that adjusts the intensity for each color needs to handle this much power. Components with this power handling capability are either big (too big to fit them all inside the casing) or expensive ($60 for 3 pots
).Obviously the choice here is to go big and inexpensive. This means there will be a "block" of components external to the windscreen (about 1 cubic inch, give or take), which will include the necessary relays and pots. So, it'll have 3 wires coming into the "block" (power, ground, and brake), and 4 wires from the "block" to the screen (power, red signal, green signal, blue signal).
Comments/suggestions/ideas?