this coming from the guy who went and got alignment even more agressive today :-D


tires r made to be worn.

so would u rather have

boring handling and have em last extra 5000miles and save you like.. (60$)
or awesome handling for the 60$ for like 10000 miles

 

and you're able to get those camber settings with stock suspension and wheels? HOW??!! (I've tried it many times... it ain't possible!!!)

As for camber wear, I just had to flop my tires after 5k miles and I'm only running -2.5deg (with VERY little toe, maybe 1/8") When you dial in neg camber, only a small portion of the tire is actually making full contact with the road under normal driving. Because of this, the inside part of the tire (the part that's making full contact) wears out much faster than the outside part of the tire which only makes full contact in hard turns.

 

I'm running neg 3.1 rear and -2.1 front. And I love it.

 

I was only able to get just less than -3 rear and about -1.5 front with the stock suspension.

 

drewchi,

i have my car like this,

im a suspension/wheel/tire guru

i have all my printouts w/ specs..

they are what i say they are... maybe a lil variation to the 100th of a degree but their there.

rides fine, treadware fine, and stock wheels.. suspension is tein flex w/edfc... the drop is -2.1F -2.2R that is how im able to dial in that much camber.


you need to get a better tire or find a better competent alignment guy..

mine have been on 7500 miles w/ no signs of wear and i drive my baby VERY VERYY hard

 

please post a copy of your alignment from the shop!

It is impossible (unless you have bent suspension pieces) to get the numbers you are taking about.

 

not lowered 2.1 2.2


when u lower the car the bottom arm goes more straight (wheras before their both angled down) when u make it more parrallel to ground it pushes out.. the lower arms are longer than tops.. therefore this causes an addition of camber right away..

-1 goes to -3.1 ish in the rear..

and -.5 goes to -2.2 in front

after which i set them to as far ++ as i could go.. just checking for room ... max + was -.9 front and -2.7 R

after this i went to the alignment setting i wanted

which was -2.2F -3.1R

this wasnt agressive enough in the front as i was still having a little understeer due to the fact the fronts werent having 100% contact in a tight corner..

so today i changed it up to

-2.95F -3.90R

i still have room in rear to pull it in more, but this would mean making some toe out.. see the rear is setup a way where u cant go max camber negative without giving it some toe out to accompany the camber (the way the bolts are setup).. keep in mind i have my toe/caster specs down on paper as well as thrust angle. everything is done w/ lasers and by very smart techs


if i get a chance ill take pics.. i have 6 printouts.. one from each alignment ive had and everytime i go back for an adjustment due to driving feedback..

im actually going back again next friday to try and tweak the rear toe a tad more as today i was noticing my rear was a lil twitchy

 

btw not impossible @ all. i could go -4.3 -4.4 in rear if wanted to but id have to have toe out..

again trust me.. i know my shit when it comes to susp/wheel/tire stuff

 

hey i just bought 17" by7" for front and rear with 225/45 on the front and 245/40 on the rear does the 7" all the way around cause a problem anbody know?

 

If your back tires last 7,500 miles you can't be driving "VERY VERY hard." I go through back tires at 5,000 mile intervals, and I only drive "hard" (without the "VERY VERY").