That's obvious.

Because you're running some pretty radical alignment it might be a good idea to say a little about suspension tuning in general. I'm not explaining this stuff to you, Rijowysock, so don't misunderstand. I just think it's time for some discussion on the how and why of suspension tuning.

Racers and autocrossers often determine optimal alignment using tire temperatures, and the method can also be used to optimize camber and tire pressures (among other things) for any given "situation." The thing about alignment is that what is optimal for one set of circumstances will almost never be optimal under different circumstances. Measuring the tire termeratures with a pyrometer (probe type is preferred) at the center of the tread, and at the inner and outer edges of the tread, tells you instantly whether you have optimal camber and tire pressure. You have to measure immediately after making a run through the section of road, track, or course, that you're optomizing for. If all three readings are the same, you have optimal pressure and alignment for that tire. If the center of the tread is hotter than the edges, then the tire is over-inflated. Both edges are hotter than the center, then the tire is under-inflated. If the temperatures increase from the outside to the inside of the tire, there is too much negative camber. If they increase in the other direction then there is too little negative camber. An even temperature tells you that all of the tread is getting used with equal effectiveness and will generally corrospond to the alignment and tire pressure that will allow the tire to generate maximum cornering force.

It is important to realize that the most effective alignment for a given situation depends not only on the track and track conditions, but also on the tires, the driver, and other mods. Even if the cars, tires, and course are all identical, the alignment that works best for one driver is apt to be less effective for others. In general, unless you are into suspension tuning (or want to learn), or unless you have made other suspension mods, the UK alignment specificaitons are an excellent compromise for all round driving conditions and most drivers. It is unwise to deviate from this without a good reason. The UK spec calls for two degrees of negative camber in the back. My car is lowered 1" in the back and a tiny bit over 1" in the front, and I have had no problem achieving 2.5 degrees of negative camber in the back using only the stock adjustments, so you have some range to play with. Measure tire temperatures, make small changes, and never adopt someone else's alignment settings just because they think it's the shizz.

For most people in most situations, even with cars lowered up to an inch, there is more range than needed in the stock S2000 suspension. If you are running R compound tires and/or have done other suspension mods, then you should start with the settings others with similar mods are using. If you are stock to 1" below stock, and running similar to OEM tires, the UK specs are the place to start tuning.

I've been away for over a week, and am trying to catch up on all the S2kI threads, so I'm going to leave it to someone else to post a link to the UK specs. They have been posted here on S2kI many times.

I have a question for the experts. LOL, it doesn't really matter, but I'm wondering if anyone knows the answer. I just put a Kaaz 1.5 LSD in my car. When I measure tire temps at the next autocross, using the same alignment and tire pressures that gave even temps with the stock LSD, will I still see even temps, or will the faster and more positive action of the clutch type LSD make a difference? My thinking is that I'll be able to put down more power more often, and that might call for some changes, but then again, it's going to be a tiny change. My guess is that the same alignment will produce the same results. Does anyone know for sure?