Did it help?

 

AS A FOLLOW UP:

Cleaned the MAP sensor thoroughly with MAF sensor cleaner (just a standard hydrocarbon solvent). Car runs even stronger and cleaner!

Geez, our MAP sensors are incredibly sensitive to the slightest gunk.

I'm going to start doing this with every oil change like the cleaner can suggests.

 

^ I wonder if you can use TB cleaner to clean the MAP sensor.

 

I'm curious how many with this problem are running aftermarket oiled-gauze type air filters or drop-in elements (vs. how many are stock). I wonder if oil going up the intake encourages the buildup of gunk.

Peter

 

I'm not familiar with the honda fuel injection engineering, but if it is similar to nissian, then the mass air flow to the engine is calculated based on the difference in resistance of two very small platinum wires, one of which is heated to a high temperature. If any non volatile material touches the wire, then it has the potential to leave carbon or other residue on that wire when it burns off. If somebody lets oil get down the small air monitor passage and on to the hot wire, then carbon deposits may develop on the wire. Any deposit on the wire will affect the heat transfer of the wire, which causes it to be hotter, which causes its resistance to be different than design for the airflow, resulting in an erronious air flow value being sent to the injection control system. This is nissian stuff, but I would think the honda setup may be similar.

 

The S2000 uses a Manifold Air Pressure sensor instead.

So if that passage is blocked for any reason, it appears it can cause erratic readings.

 

tried, same same.

the longest i gone without stalling is when i used the top engine cleaner

 

This is something that happens to all multiport fuel injected cars. I believe that it has something to do with the PCV system. This basically takes air/fumes from the crank case and routes it into the intake. This is a good thing to do from an emissions perspective, but I'd guess that it gunks up the intake over time.

 

I think I might have the same problem. I had a leaking drive shaft because of a minor accident where I jumped a curb and bottomed out, and replaced that because my car was running strange. I figured it was because of something wrong with the drive shaft. Replacing it didn't fix the problem.

The next thing i've been told is that it could be my clutch slipping. My car seems to run fine when it's not warmed up, but once I ride with three bars for a good ten minutes or so, my car starts going nuts. When I take off from a dead stop it has very little power and just seems to putter along. If I push it all the way to nine, the engine revvs but it doesn't seem like all the power is getting to the ground. Doesn't accelerate as fast as it normally does when I hit VTEC or at any point before. The way everyone is describing it makes it sound like it probably isn't my clutch.

So if I were to take it to someone to look at it, what exactly would I tell them to look for. Where is this sensor you all speak of?

Thanks

 

Sorry, didn't read through the whole thread. The sensor is in the throttle body, correct?

Also, when all of you say your car was hesitating, was it minor or was it very noticeable?