show me a dyno chart of a stock k24 with bolt-ons making more then 250whp. on a dynojet or similar. stock meaning stock cams, manifold, etc.

And you're telling me that you are going to be making a mounts kit/adapter plate/flywheel spacer/and a custom cai for $600?? Would there even be any room to fit a c.a.i. with the firewall in the way? The wiring is also free? Does the s2k share the same style plugs for the ecu or motor(I'm not sure if they do or not)? You are sponsoring the labor for free for a test car right? So that wouldn't apply to the average person out there thinking about doing this swap. You are going to go out of your way to make a k20 work in a s2k chassis, but cheap out and modify the stock s2k header? Seems kind of ghetto, IMO.

You are right about selling your stock motor to make up the difference though. I'll give you that. I just don't like hearing companies hype up something, saying it is so cheap and easy to do, so the average joe will try to attempt it on that budget and end up having to waste a lot of time figuring out why it doesn't cost the same for him. Hence the reason why so many people have to sell their unfinished k20 swapped civic's and integra's because they run out of money to finish it up.

Overall if you did do this swap and it made a big improvement on power then good for you. But can you honestly say that it is worth it? You also keep saying k20 and not k24. I'm pretty sure you are planning on going with a k24...right?

edit: Here is a dyno of a stock k24 (tsx) with bolt-ons tuned. Not even near my what I thought were generous number...

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1618348

 

i say he just sticks with the 2JZ idea. if your going to do it, might as well make it big. a swapped bolt-on Kpro'd s2k is going to be just plain dumb.

 

RB26

 

I think if you ever do a SR20DET it depends on your applications. The S13 SR20DET has a high port head which flows more air and can create big hp numbers then the S14/S15 SR20DET which have a low port head since they have VTC or VCT (forgot the name just some sort of variable valve timing) and require alot more work to get high hp.

I would think if your not looking to get more then 350hp I would definitely get a S14/S15 SR20DET since the miles are a lot lower and the engines are newer as well as they have a bigger turbo (T28 rather then a T25). Basically S14 has a non ball bearing T28 turbo and a S15 has a ball bearing T28 turbo with a 6 speed manual. Just minor boltons and it would be good. There is no difference between valve covers but most of them were black.

If you decide to stick with a S13 SR20DET get a blacktop since they were newer then the redtop SR20DET. There is no big difference between redtops/blacktops just different years and some minor differences like ecu and wiring.

Hopefully this helps I wrote this up quick and I didn't post any mistakes.

 

Your mistaken again man, im not doing this to make money, like i stated in the beginning of this topic, its for fun, just to see what would happen. I dont know where your going with this??? The guinie pig doesnt have to worry about money, PERIOD!! Im sponsoring everything. You just hav'nt been listening. The $600 for the mount brackets, and the adaptor plate is what im paying, and the intake faces the firewall, but i took the measurements , it doesnt come that close like your thinking. And knowones trying to sell anything here bro- this is all to test a theory. Now, is there anything else?? Do i have your permission to proceed with my project??

 

Sweet! Thanks for that helpful info man! Ill check into that motor. We really want to do this swap also, we just bought an auction car with a blown motor, the car is clean though, well probably use that car for this sr20 project. Should be cake compared to the 2jz.

 

Yeah, opinions are like a$$holes, every forum has one!

 

PUT A JZ IN IT AT FLORDIA!!!!!

 

???

 

you asked for em!