My steering wheel has excess rotational play (how far you can turn the steering wheel without moving the front wheels).
The service manual advises to adjust the rack guide on page 17-14.

The procedure appears to be simple:
Loosen the rack guide screw locknut (A) using 43mm wrench and then loosen the rack guide screw (B). Tighten the screw (B) to 18lb-ft, then loosen it. Retighten the rack guide screw (B) to 2.9lb-ft then back it off the specified angle.

The Specified Return Angle: 15

 

i do know its not easy... i gave up and took it to the dealer. perfect now. i suggest you do the same- no cost and solves the problem!

 

You are right.
It is harder than I thought; it is at impossible angle and require special tool.
It looks like the lower A arm needs to be removed, doesn't it require an alignment afterwards?

 

i would think that if alignment was required they would say so in the service manual and they dont say anything...
i still think that this is better handled by a dealer- you also have to check the power steering using a spring scale once you adjust the above (see page 17-4).

 

I also got play in my steering wheel after they did the clutch-repair.

When changing the clutch: do they need to do anything with the steering wheel? Could this have caused the play in the steering wheel?

Thanks,
DoubleU

 

The technician (Honda Dealer) adjusted the rack guide based on my request. It did not help...it does however, makes the steering heavier. In fact, we experimented with the rack guide to get the steering feel that I wanted. If it is too tight, it will be really heavy and does not return to center; you have to turn to steering to center it as it does not center itself when you are doing a U turn (very bad).

The reason of the play, in my case, was due to the worn-out bushing on my steering shaft. They replaced it under warranty and it is as good as new.

 

I too was noticing some play on my steering. I looked in the Helm's manual and it seemed fairly difficult to reach the necessary lock nut and guide screw; however, I found out a very easy way to adjust it.

Jack up the car and remove the driver side front wheel. Where the control arm attaches to the subframe, you'll be able to see the locknut and guide screw. There is just enough room to get some tools thhrough there. I was able to easily loosen the lock nut using adjustable pliers (the plumping typ). Then used a 13mm or 14mm wrench to tighten the guide screw, then backing it off ~10-15 degrees. Retighten the locknut with the adjustable pliers and you're set!

The nice thing about doing it this was is that if you end up tightening the guide screw too much, and therefore making the steering so tight it won't return properly, you can easily adjust it. The whole process takes about 20 minutes.

The only thing is that this process only made my steering a little heavier, which I like...but the play seems to be there. I think I need to check the steering shaft bolts or bushings...

 

you sure you didn't change your toe?

 

toe should not change . the adjustment just takes up the slack between the worm and roller !!

 

yes, I'm sure I didn't adjust the toe....

I may have explained it wrong by calling the part the control arm, but the procedure is the same. The locknut and guide screw can both be accessed from the wheel well. You won't have a ton of room, but enough. Sure beats removing the splash gaurd and loosening the radiator hose...

I guarantee that you will easily see the locknut and guide screw from the wheel well....even if you followed the instructions from the Helms manual, I can't see how there would be much more room to get a rench in there. It looks like it would actually be harder to fit a wrench that way...I'll post a pic if folks don't think I making this clear.