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Less than $50 in epoxy resin and 4" fiberglass ribbon. Made a 28mm stock sway bar into a 38mm sway bar. Bar survived one day at the track and one autoX with no failure. Cannot say that I could feel any difference on the street or the track. I think the stock sway bar is so stiff that you have to be at the limits of traction to get it to bend. This one does not bend at all. On the positive side, the ride on the street is not any harsher.

 

I am not an expert on this subject but based upon my limited knowledge and experience I think that there are a number of considerations we are not discussing..

Would you change the bushings first? I assume they are all rubber and tend to deform more than polyurethane. That way you could be sure to be testing changes to the bar.

We discuss the thickness of the bars as an absolute.. but isn

 

Chris,
That's why I am hoping someone will make adjustable sway bars for this car.
Weltmiester makes them for Porsche's and they cost less than $700 for both front and rear and come with urathane bushings.
That way you can tune it the way you want it.
I don't think Weltmiester is gonna make for a Honda though.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by RandyP:
[B]Stock autoX drivers say the S2000 needs a stiffer front bar to counter the oversteer when on race tires.

 

How about an autocrossers bar? Stock class can only modify the front. Bigger seems to be better in this case.

 

I can tell. The spring constant of epoxy fiberglass is similar to that of steel. However, it will crack before the steel breaks. This bar is significantly stiffer than the Mugen bar. However, if both are stiff enough that they don't flex significantly, you can only see a difference in extreme driving conditions like autoX.

 

The price is for both.

 

Randy, I'm iffy on the idea of a wrapped swaybar, but I've gotta say, I'm blown away by the nice job you did laying the fiberglass. It looks great! I've never done it, is it tricky, or just really meticulous ?

What did you do about the bushings, drill them out?

 

fluxen, the bushings were the hardest part. I'm not real happy with how hard it was to enlarge the holes in the rubber bushings. I used a sanding roller and a small grinding wheel but it was difficult. To use the stock brackets, I also tapered the fiberglass in the bushing area down to about 34mm. The epoxy and glass tape was simple. Sanding the fiberglass was nasty. I finished it by spray painting and putting a skim coat of epoxy over the paint.

 

I have been screamin this for onths now but noooooooobody listens. This car needs a bigger rear bar. The oversteer in this car is realated to roll in the rear.