+1 ^ you can remove the rear all together.....

 

cr is stiffer, but not sure the actual lbs

 

found that it is about a lb more for front and rear.

 

What tires are you running? The Gendron with the thin walled center section is a good choice if you're running OEM tires. Use the thick walled or solid center section with R compound tires. As others have said, you don't need to replace the rear anti-sway bar and you won't need to remove it if you get a stiff enough FSB.

 

CR is about 22% stiffer.

How easy is it to install sway bar yourself?

Also, someone said you don't need the rear sways. If you have a choice between rear TIEBAR or rear SWAYBAR, which one makes more difference?

 

i got the comptech non adjustable front and rear, i dunno if i can tell a difference from stock, mabye a little

 

The anti-SWAYBAR will make a much bigger difference. A stiffer rear antisway bar will move the cars handling bias toward more oversteer, and that's the wrong direction. This is a case where no difference is better than the difference you'll see. A stiffer rear bar will also increase the cars tendency to lift the inside rear wheel, allowing it to spin, during hard cornering.

 

so, which front wtb would be good for street drivng and maybe an occasional auto x? Is a hollow bar better foe the street than a solid bar?

 

I had a Saner bar on my AP1. For the money, it was fantastic.

 

Honestly the best combo in my opinion would be to go with either a cusco or tanabe front sway bar. Unless your hardcore and want to adjust to every track, or autox course you go to then a non adjustable will be just fine. Personally I am going to go with the tanabe because it is a 30mm as opposed to cuscos 32mm. I think the 32mm may be a bit to much.

as for the rear I am going to upgrade to the cr's rear bar.