synthetic oil- again
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 14,113
Likes: 4
From: manhattan beach, calif
synthetic oil- again
yes we have discussed this before, but i just want to check to see if anyone now knows of a reason not to go synthetic...
i am finding it a pain to change the oil every 3 months- it was suggested that i go synthetic for this reason. (by the way, how often does synthetic need to be changed?)-
i have about 11k miles on the car and it is 2.5 years old... so it most likely very broken in by now!
thoughts?
thanks!
i am finding it a pain to change the oil every 3 months- it was suggested that i go synthetic for this reason. (by the way, how often does synthetic need to be changed?)-
i have about 11k miles on the car and it is 2.5 years old... so it most likely very broken in by now!
thoughts?
thanks!
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 14,113
Likes: 4
From: manhattan beach, calif
i guess i found most of my answers- a member email to me suggested that i check this thread, which linked to the info below-
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...threadid=100117
from the link in that site:
"The synthetics offer the only truly significant differences, due to their
superior high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very
low tendency to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature
flow characteristics. Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to
traditional petroleum oils. You will have to decide if their high cost is
justified in your application.
The extended oil drain intervals given by the vehicle manufacturers
(typically 7500 miles) and synthetic oil companies (up to 25,000 miles)
are for what is called normal service. Normal service is defined as the
engine at normal operating temperature, at highway speeds, and in a dust
free environment. Stop and go, city driving, trips of less than 10 miles,
or extreme heat or cold puts the oil change interval into the severe
service category, which is 3000 miles for most vehicles. Synthetics can be
run two to three times the mileage of petroleum oils with no problems.
They do not react to combustion and combustion by-products to the extent
that the dead dinosaur juice does. The longer drain intervals possible
help take the bite out of the higher cost of the synthetics. If your car
or bike is still under warranty you will have to stick to the recommended
drain intervals. These are set for petroleum oils and the manufacturers
make no official allowance for the use of synthetics."
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...threadid=100117
from the link in that site:
"The synthetics offer the only truly significant differences, due to their
superior high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very
low tendency to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature
flow characteristics. Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to
traditional petroleum oils. You will have to decide if their high cost is
justified in your application.
The extended oil drain intervals given by the vehicle manufacturers
(typically 7500 miles) and synthetic oil companies (up to 25,000 miles)
are for what is called normal service. Normal service is defined as the
engine at normal operating temperature, at highway speeds, and in a dust
free environment. Stop and go, city driving, trips of less than 10 miles,
or extreme heat or cold puts the oil change interval into the severe
service category, which is 3000 miles for most vehicles. Synthetics can be
run two to three times the mileage of petroleum oils with no problems.
They do not react to combustion and combustion by-products to the extent
that the dead dinosaur juice does. The longer drain intervals possible
help take the bite out of the higher cost of the synthetics. If your car
or bike is still under warranty you will have to stick to the recommended
drain intervals. These are set for petroleum oils and the manufacturers
make no official allowance for the use of synthetics."
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 37,305
Likes: 18
Just watch out for sludge build up. I once thought I could go a much longer change interval. Somewhere between 10,000 and 15,000 kilometers, sludge started to form. Then you have to go through a couple of engine flushes, remove valve cover and clean thoroughly. I keep to the same change interval even though I use synthetic in all my cars. I like the synthetic for its added margin of protection but it doesn't pay to be lazy.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 608
Likes: 0
From: Rochester
So here's the thing. I keep reading that synthetic is superior to dino. But that's rather nebulous. If I change dino oil on a regular, 3500-or-so mile interval, what's the *real* benefit?
High temp oxidation resistance - how much, under what conditions?
High film strength - how much stronger? 10%, 50%, 1%?
Etc.
The only thing that seems certain is that synthetics cost more. Does anyone have any good reference with real, quantitative information? I'm struggling with the decision of whether I should bother switching and spending more money with no real data. (I'm sorry - I'm an engineer!)
Tony
High temp oxidation resistance - how much, under what conditions?
High film strength - how much stronger? 10%, 50%, 1%?
Etc.
The only thing that seems certain is that synthetics cost more. Does anyone have any good reference with real, quantitative information? I'm struggling with the decision of whether I should bother switching and spending more money with no real data. (I'm sorry - I'm an engineer!)
Tony
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,960
Likes: 2
From: Transporter
I enjoy putting synthetic in my baby.
People routinely pay 7 cents per mile for gasoline. What's another half cent for the best possible protection for your engine (and maybe a slight recovery of cost in extra fuel econony)?
I didn't buy my S to be frugal.
You can put cheapie tires on your car for better wear, but would you?
It's about the love baby!
People routinely pay 7 cents per mile for gasoline. What's another half cent for the best possible protection for your engine (and maybe a slight recovery of cost in extra fuel econony)?
I didn't buy my S to be frugal.
You can put cheapie tires on your car for better wear, but would you?
It's about the love baby!
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Registered User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,960
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From: Transporter
[QUOTE]Originally posted by mntony
[B]So here's the thing. I keep reading that synthetic is superior to dino. But that's rather nebulous. If I change dino oil on a regular, 3500-or-so mile interval, what's the *real* benefit?
[B]So here's the thing. I keep reading that synthetic is superior to dino. But that's rather nebulous. If I change dino oil on a regular, 3500-or-so mile interval, what's the *real* benefit?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,061
Likes: 363
From: Redondo Beach
Tony,
Here's an old article on synthetic oils that might address some of your questions...
-John
http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/synth_oil.txt
An excerpt:
"`Film strength' refers to the amount of pressure required to force out a film of oil from between two pieces of flat metal. The higher the film strength, the more protection is provided to such parts as piston rings, timing chain, cams, lifters, and rocker arms...wherever the lubricant is not under oil-system pressure. Synthetics routinely exhibit a nominal film strength of well over 3,000 psi, while petroleum oils average somewhat less than 500 psi."
Here's an old article on synthetic oils that might address some of your questions...
-John
http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/synth_oil.txt
An excerpt:
"`Film strength' refers to the amount of pressure required to force out a film of oil from between two pieces of flat metal. The higher the film strength, the more protection is provided to such parts as piston rings, timing chain, cams, lifters, and rocker arms...wherever the lubricant is not under oil-system pressure. Synthetics routinely exhibit a nominal film strength of well over 3,000 psi, while petroleum oils average somewhat less than 500 psi."