I decided to splurge and have my S2000 repainted this year- along with some body work to remove various dings and door dents.

When they were done painting, I was told that the trunk solenoid wasn't working, but it worked before they took it. So they looked for a part from Honda and said it had been discontinued. I did some searching and I think the 2000 MY had a different part than the 2001-. I can find some of the latches for the later years, but they all say 2001 forward as the model year.

Did the 2000 S2000 have a different trunk release solenoid than later years? Is there any compatible option from another Honda model? Is it possible to refurb the solenoid?

I've tested the wiring and it appears fine...sending 12 volts when the button is depressed, and constant 12 volts on the other side for the trunk light switch circuit. I also hooked in 12V power source to the solenoid and its not responding. So I think it really is dead. Not sure how it happened, but I'm fairly certain my trunk button was working prior.

 

Tried the solenoid both polarities? Not sure it makes a difference though.

This Ebay listing says 2000-2009.

-- Chuck

 

Thanks. That is definitely a newer model of the latch than I have now. Mine came with an emergency release cable with a handle rather than the glow in the dark pull-button.

If I could confirm it was bolt-pattern compatible, then it doesn't matter too much. My goal has been to keep as much original equipment as possible, but if the latch is bolt-pattern compatible, then I could keep the original part for some future collector and use the replacement for now.

I didn't try reversing the polarity, but I think its an electromagnetic actuator, so it should be good in either direction. I'll try reversing polarity just in case.

Thanks,
Byron

 

Trunk lids are the same part number (68500-S2A-A90ZZ) for all model years as far as I can tell which should mean the mounting holes for the lock should be the same.

-- Chuck

 

Over my lunch break I removed the assembly from the trunk and tested it at my electronics bench. It was making a noise when I applied 12V but not moving.

So I literally hit it with a baseball bat (a small Louisville slugger replica bat) several times (gently tapping of course) and tried it again and now it works.

So I can only assume it got gummed up or stuck somehow. Hopefully this fix sticks.

 

Perhaps some graphite powder lube?

-- Chuck

 

If it stops again, I'm thinking of getting some silicon lubricant to spray blindly into the plastic enclosure.

Graphite powder is conductive, so I wouldn't want to get some in there where the external wires connect to the copper coil without being able to see where it was going. And the powder might not penetrate into the cylinder.

So maybe this story will help anyone else who has a latch that isn't opening. So long as the button is sending 12 volts through the cable, try removing the whole latch, separate the solenoid and its plastic enclosure by removing the 2 screws holding it to the mechanical latch, and then give it pretty good beating from each direction to dislodge any stiction. Not sure if this is a lasting fix, but so far so good.

 

I am going to try some blind spraying with silicone and a Louisville slugger also...
Thank you

 

I hope tapping it loosens your solenoid like it did mine. Its still working for me. I took the whole thing off when I did it and after a good amount a thumping on it, connected its pins up to a 12V/2A DC power source to see if it engaged before putting it back on the car. So far so good...

 

There are a lot of threads on the trunk release button failing. However, it is not the button but the wire bundle as it enters the trunk area fails from so many flexes opening and closing. The wires just crack. It is recommended that that is one of the first things to look for when you might have a problem with the trunk opening.