i see what your saying BUT, i must say i am very new with forums. Ive owned a gsr civic ex then a 03 evo8 then drove a friends ap1 and had to have one(Quickly) now im on my second ap1, I drove the first one like it was the last day on earth everyday and ended up flipping it, now with great knowledge on driving one i thought i would get deeper into the s2k world here.(Best place for any info) MY001-01, MY08, FSB, RSB, all new to me, is there a link that has all this info? thanks !!!

 

Red mx5, I agree with every word youve spoken. I have experienced the opposite of the original thread. I have not pushed an AP1 hard through tight turns...but my AP2 will push and push until power out of most turns. The same time Ive read the rear is being softened almost every year! since 2001! Im thinking maybe its not me! I dont race but I know the dynamics of balance in turns. That said- most aftermarket spring rates mirror AP1 rates closer than AP2. will this help???

 

MY- model year!
FSB-front stabilizer bar!
RSB- rear stabilizer bar!
Since you flipped your first, and not familiar with this site. Stop driving and read every thing you can possibly read here! It will help you stay alive!

 

haha yeah true this was a while ago and now had my second ap1 for a good amount of time now, thanks for the info.

 

To things that make the cars push are 1) too much brake during trail breaking or during turn-in, or 2) turning in sharply rather than smoothly. I'm not familiar enough with the later cars to say whether or not you could solve the problem with little tuning of your control inputs, but it's something you might want to consider. Softer front springs or stiffer rear springs will move the handling bias more toward oversteer. You might also look at the anti-sway-bar sizes from other years. A stiffer rear bar or softer front bar will move the handling bias more toward oversteer and have less impact on ride quality than springs.

I really don't know the AP2's well enough to do more than give general advice, but I'd be careful about dialing early AP1 levels of oversteer into an AP2, because they don't have the same roll-understeer characteristics.

Stiffen the end you want to slide more, and soften the end you want to have more grip.

 

I find: the more brake, the less understeer.

 

[QUOTE=CA_S2K,Sep 28 2007, 12:11 AM]i see what your saying BUT, i must say i am very new with forums. Ive owned

 

also the oversteer characteristic can be adjusted by the rake of the vehicle...lowering the rear of the car w/in a range of 0-10mm relative to the front helps reduce the amount of oversteer the car creates if i remember mugen's suspension tuning theory correctly

 

That's true, up to a point, because breaking shifts weight to the front tires and off the rears, and more breaking shifts more weight, so you get more oversteer. However, you can also break hard enough when turning-in (trail breaking) to totally overload the front tires, and they'll start sliding. Once they're sliding you have to either unwind the steering to get grip, or snap the tail around with the throttle. I've got a video of my car plowing into a corner with the front tires howling and chattering, but it's too embarassing to post. You've really got to overcook it going into the turn, and probably turn in too quickly to boot, but I promise you, even an early AP1 will plow if the driver is enough of a bumblebutt.

I suspect the situation may be somewhat different with R compound tires, but I'm not really sure. You'll shift more weight forward because you're able to break harder, so there will be more weight transferred off the rear tires before the front tires are overloaded, but the back end might already be about to come around by that point; If you're running R compounds, you'd know more about the net result than I do.

 

'zactly. With a turn in under hard braking I'm a lot more likely to loop it than to understeer.