Interesting. My HP+'s made *some* noise when I first put them on, but after a day or so at the track, they were beaten into submission, I guess! Now they only occasionally make a *little* noise, not a problem at all. Actually, I had the same experience with CarboTech XP8's. After a track event, they went silent.

The responsiveness and initial bite of the HP+ even when cold is pretty impressive. I had intended to swap the stockers back in, but I've gotten somewhat addicted to the HP+'s, so I live with the dust (which isn't really all that bad, considering).

 

I'm not sure why, either. Maybe a bad and/or old batch?
Anyway, I went back to Valvoline SynPower for the next track event (Mosport) and over the course of two days with two drivers and more open track time (well over twice the track time vs. my Watkins Glen experience with ATE SuperBlue), the pedal stayed firm. Same tires and pads, btw, and ~10-15* higher ambient temps.

Anyway, off-the-shelf works for me, and it's cheaper and more readily available.

 

these are my recommendations.

Motul RBF600 fluid or ATE Super Blue Racing
Hawk HP+ or similar
Goodridge or Stoptech SS lines
rotors any cheap ones are fine as well

also make custom brake cooling ducts as they will help.



my current setup is

Stoptech blank rotors (cost me less than 100)
Hawk HT10 (track use, for street i just use oem pads)
Stoptech SS lines
Motul RBF600 DOT4

 

I have Slotted rotors

SS lines

Stock Fuild and Pads

I have a Vented Side fender.. not sure it that helps or not.

 

Bear in mind these upgrades won't actually reduce your stopping distance. They might help with brake fade..

 

They might not reduce 60-0 distances...but they most definately will reduce the 100+ -0 distances. The OP did say autocross and street...but still.

OP: don't waste your money on upgrading brakes that are allready more than adequate for what you're doing. The stock pads and fluid are more than good enough for autocross and DD. I would just save your money for other stuff.


If you're going to be tracking the car, upgrayedd the pads and fluid to track pads and then swap out for street pads after the event.

The thing I didn't like about Hawk's pads is that they dust so damn much. The dust also turns an orange rusty color after it rains because of the metal content in the pads. I've also heard stories about Hawk dust embedding itself into wheels/fenders. F that.

I used Hawk HPS on my S13 back in the day and I honestly wasn't that impressed. I know that the HP+ is more hardcore...but...I stay away from "intermediate" pads.

Track pads for the track. Street pads for the street. That's the only right way to do it IMO.

The stainless lines are nice for pedal feel, though. I have stainless lines and the pedal does feel a lot nicer. I bought them because I track the car and I saw that the calipers were hot enough to melt the dust boots...so I figured that upgrading to the stainless lines would be a good idea.

Plus they were only like $100 for really nice DOT lines. I think I got the Russell lines?? I can never remember the brand.

My advice would be to leave the OEM pads on for your purposes. They don't dust excessively, they last forever, they don't make noise, and they work fine in the cold.

Since you're going to do a lot of slow speed but heavy braking, I'd suggest getting some sticky icky tires. For your purposes, that would improve braking performance more than pads and fluid.