Wet accident. Tail happy.
This accident was the complete driver side (rear bumper, quarter panel, tail light, rear wheel, and maybe suspension don't know yet.
If it's a total loss, I can manage. Only thing I added to the car since I got it was that wing and tires. Which btw, I wonder if I can complain to Belletire about the performance of those Continental DWS I had. Purchased exactly a year ago and lost grip in the rain. Only drove 8,000 miles on them.
If it's a total loss, I can manage. Only thing I added to the car since I got it was that wing and tires. Which btw, I wonder if I can complain to Belletire about the performance of those Continental DWS I had. Purchased exactly a year ago and lost grip in the rain. Only drove 8,000 miles on them.
Originally Posted by Car Analogy' timestamp='1381243243' post='22816934
Looks like q panel, bumper, paint, maybe inner panel, can't tell if door damage from viewing pic on my cell. All that comes to like maybe $4k parts and labor, not including whatever suspension/frame damage we know is there, but can't see. The body stuff by itself wouldn't total it. But the frame stuff easily could.
So it all comes down to if frame damage, and how much. If its just suspension damage, it shouldn't be totaled.
So it all comes down to if frame damage, and how much. If its just suspension damage, it shouldn't be totaled.
I had a smaller accident before. Small scrape on the bumper, taillight, and just the corners tip of the trunk and quarter panel, and that was $1400 in parts with paint and labor.
This accident was the complete driver side (fender,door,rear bumper, quarter panel, tail light, rear wheel, and suspension damage.
If it's a total loss, I can manage. Only thing I added to the car since I got it was that wing and tires. Which btw, I wonder if I can complain to Belletire about the performance of those Continental DWS I had. Purchased exactly a year ago and lost grip in the rain. Only drove 8,000 miles on them.

I've spun and jumped a curb backwards once, because I dodged someone that ran a red while doing around 45mph on a damp local road. The passenger side rear wheel hit the curb and took all the force, so I needed a new arm, axle, hub, tire (maybe wheel too), rotor, and a lot of other small parts. No frame damage though. I think the estimate started around $6k. It didn't look like a lot of damage or work, but it took a ridiculous amount of phone calls to get them moving (I wait several weeks before making the first call so they had plenty of time), them several months to complete, and the bill basically doubled.
Figure $500 per panel for good quality repair. Looks like 3 or 4 panels for your accident. Then add some of the suspension parts, wheel (?) and alignment. Usually the car gets totaled if the cost of the repair exceeds 50% of the wholesale value of the car.
I'd be careful about making that kind of complaint about the tires. Not sure what area you're in, but what was the speed limit on the highway? If you were at or above it, insurance normally says you were driving too fast for the conditions, so the tire company might too.
...and the wet in the photos they'll definitely say too fast for conditions.
Depending on alignment how was the inner tread depth?
Originally Posted by shinigamiz' timestamp='1381257867' post='22817375
I'd be careful about making that kind of complaint about the tires. Not sure what area you're in, but what was the speed limit on the highway? If you were at or above it, insurance normally says you were driving too fast for the conditions, so the tire company might too.
...and the wet in the photos they'll definitely say too fast for conditions.
Depending on alignment how was the inner tread depth?
I don't know his area, but I've driven on a 70mph (I think) highway recently during a storm, and didn't notice any water build up on it, or any traction issues with my car. But if I thought my tires were worn, I wouldn't have driven that fast either.
Also, not sure if "rear started to skip" meant the rear end was bouncing or the rear tires were slipping. I'm guessing he meant bouncing, which I don't think is a tire issue.
I'd be careful about making that kind of complaint about the tires. Not sure what area you're in, but what was the speed limit on the highway? If you were at or above it, insurance normally says you were driving too fast for the conditions, so the tire company might too. How was your alignment, tire pressures, tread depth?
I've spun and jumped a curb backwards once, because I dodged someone that ran a red while doing around 45mph on a damp local road. The passenger side rear wheel hit the curb and took all the force, so I needed a new arm, axle, hub, tire (maybe wheel too), rotor, and a lot of other small parts. No frame damage though. I think the estimate started around $6k. It didn't look like a lot of damage or work, but it took a ridiculous amount of phone calls to get them moving (I wait several weeks before making the first call so they had plenty of time), them several months to complete, and the bill basically doubled.
I've spun and jumped a curb backwards once, because I dodged someone that ran a red while doing around 45mph on a damp local road. The passenger side rear wheel hit the curb and took all the force, so I needed a new arm, axle, hub, tire (maybe wheel too), rotor, and a lot of other small parts. No frame damage though. I think the estimate started around $6k. It didn't look like a lot of damage or work, but it took a ridiculous amount of phone calls to get them moving (I wait several weeks before making the first call so they had plenty of time), them several months to complete, and the bill basically doubled.
The tires looked to have 70% thread left. At least the rears did. Front looked brand new still. 90-95%. When i said the rear skipped, it slid few inches either direction, that's when I started to slow down, and that's when I lost the rear.
The most important thing to consider when deciding to buy a car is how much you're going to use it. Obviously, if it's just going to sit outside your dorm or apartment for four years, it's not worth it. And if you find yourself driving alongside university buses all the time, car ownership may still not be a great idea.
Where is your school? Are you in the middle of nowhere, or are you in a city with public transportation?
How comprehensive are campus shuttles?
How many people on campus have cars? If the number is relatively small, you can probably get by with your student ID and walking shoes.
Where is your school? Are you in the middle of nowhere, or are you in a city with public transportation?
How comprehensive are campus shuttles?
How many people on campus have cars? If the number is relatively small, you can probably get by with your student ID and walking shoes.
For future notice once the back end starts swaying the last thing you want to do is lift off the throttle or hit the brakes, its most likely what induced the spin. A slight addition of power will get the rear planted and help the toe, especially in an AP1. Overall doesn't look too bad for hitting something at 55 honestly, good to hear its fixable. I bet probably a third of that cost is for the quarter panel work









