Hey guys! I got my AP1 around a month ago and I'm looking to change my oil. I scheduled an appointment at the Honda dealership for an oil change. I asked them what oil they use and they replied with Pennzoil Platinum. Is this the 10w30 that Honda suggests? What do you guys think about the oil? Is mobil1 better? I'd rather pay instead of doing the work myself and screwing something up.

 

I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum now. Good stuff! I did my first 300,000 miles on Amsoil. Also good stuff! I do 3000 miles oil & OEM filter changes. Overdoing it? Yes! My S is my baby!

 

I used to use M1 in the entire 90s for all my EGs, EFs, B series, SR20 S13, etc... because of the hype. It always burned oil.

Got my Ap1 about 7 years ago, and been using Castrol Edge High Mileage (after using M1 for a little bit) and saw a big improvement in less oil usage. Stuck with Castrol Edge ever since for 7 years now. Good stuff. M1 sux balls.

 

I've used Pennzoil Synthetic in the NSX since I've had it, but started using Quaker State Synthetic in the S2000 when it was new, so I have continued to do so. Seems Pennzoil does well in comparison tests that I have read, and is readily available and often on sale.

 

...its just oil

 

10W-30 is 10W-30... Heck, there's even Honda-branded 10W-30 which I'm surprised they're not pushing.

The critical item, though, is the specific S2000 oil filter which they should have.

Curious what an "official" oil and filter change costs at a Honda dealer.

-- Chuck

 

The only helpful comment I can even make towards this is that for *whatever* reason, M1 burns off when literally ANY other oil doesn't burn a drop.

Idk why.

I'm not an oil scientist.

But I've observed this first hand, and read a million accounts. I've even tried it in different cars and different scenarios and tried multiple times (because I AM a scientist...just not an oil one) M1 just disappears...idk why.

Besides that...
Use what ever oil makes you warm and fuzzy, as long as its close to the right weight. M1, Castrol, Valvoline, The Purp, Pennzoil...0W30, 0W40, 5W30, 5W40, 10W30...hell 5W20 go nuts. Its just oil.

If you're trying to do something special with the car...list it. Otherwise...remember that there's probably more Hondas than there are stars in the universe that have been running for 300K miles on sludge from the lube oil place.

 

If you want to have more Information about this, you may ask your question here:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/

Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40, just for the Record. Must be the same as Pennzoil Euro in the USA.

 

Ok, why are you bringing this car to a dealership? They don't know these cars.

Chances are they will install the wrong oil filter, or they will get the correct one but neglect to torque it down (this cars filter looks like a normal filter, but requires torquing down either woth a torque wrench or specified amount of rotation after initial contact). Not torquing it down risks filter spinning loose (due to its extremely high oil pressure required for 9k rpm and operating vtec solenoid) and resulting engine fire or at very least loss of oil pressure and destroyed engine, which dealership will never admit fault.

Dealerships routinely screw up servicing these cars.

Either learn to diy, or find a trusted independent shop that is willing to listen to this forums recommendations about unique service requirements for this vehicle. There are only a few, but its vital to head them, and all too easy for a shop to assume they know better.

Rest assured, the collective S2000 wisdom of this forum far exceeds every Honda dealership on this earth and every independent shop (since the independent shops that work on these cars often are part of this forum).

I can't emphasize enough to not take this car to a dealership for service, unless its the rare exception dealership that knows and cares (there are a few sprinkled around). But even then if they assume its an easy job (like an oil change) and the tech that knows the S isn't assigned to it, might as well be any lame dealer).

 

I am not some oil scientists either but..... it seems that the AP1 makes Mobil 1 disappear while the AP2 does not. I have been using Mobil 1 0W-30 from the beginning in my 2009 (stock, unmodified) and I have never, ever seen the oil go down one single "X" on the sanded dipstick (so I can see the nearly clear oil) not one iota of disappearing oil for me and I stand at 75K miles.

Bob the oil guy and a few other oil lines of thought concur that synthetic (won't delve into differences between USA and Europe) provides a lubrication layer unlike Dino oil. That means you get a "little sumpin" when you cold start especially after a week or more goes by. In addition, using 0W-30 is better than say a 10W-30 because the oil is so much thinner at start and helps provide fast (near instant) lubrication especially in cold (not AZ or CA) temperatures.

Finally, WalMart sells Mobil 1 for $24 in a 5 quart bottle. Inexpensive for such a high quality oil.