I’m dropping my car off Monday to be aligned after new rear tires . I’m assuming they are just going to go by some Oem S2000 sheet unless I tell them otherwise and my car suspension and setup is a bit far from Oem at this point. I’m on Coilovers lowered maybe a inch 1/2 or more , on 17x9+40 squared wheels with 245/40 front tires and 255/40 rears . It’s about a finger gap in between my rear bumper tab area and wheel not in height but just space inbetween the tire and the fender itself so it’s pretty low/tight . Also in the front it’s about a finger squeeze between front tire and fender tucked just a little bit. I’m not sure what info is needed to at least give me an idea of where my specs should be but I’m open to awnser or hear anything.

 

Not sure if there help but to give an idea of height/fitment

 

They won't be able to align to stock camber spec. You should be using like -3ish with 17x9+40, to avoid rubbing. It will still rub..but...avoiding. Do you have camber joints up front? what kind? You should be using uppers for this fitment on stock fenders.

I always try for as much positive caster as possible (with no more than 1 degree variance per side). How much you get depends on a few things on your particular car.

A tiny amount of toe-in up front to help with tire wear. Like 0.05" per side or something.

AP2 rear toe spec range is fine. AP1 is a bit much, IMO.

I make it easy on the alignment shop. I'll take in an excel printout of what I want, laid out logically. Or at least write it on a piece of paper for them.

 

as far as fitment I’m not concerned , I’m pretty low but had a lot of fender work done roll/slight pull/ tab relocation . I was just more curious as to what numbers I should be near when the alignment is done. I have a good amount of camber in the backs already and the front a little bit too. So ill probably shoot for 3 in the rear and maybe 1.5-2 in the front. And if possible try to get the max caster ? Which is like 6 right ?

 

Max available caster depends on:
-How much camber and toe you want
-Your subframe position
-Your LCA bushing condition
-How cute the alignment person finds you

I always ask them to max that mother right up. But to keep each side within 1 deg.

So even if they can get 8 deg on one side...if the other side can only get 5....
Max is beteen 5 and 6.

A tip: If you're maximizing negative front camber using stock adjusters....you're limiting the amount of available positive caster.

This is why, in more than 1 way, camber joints are "range extenders" for available angles.

 

Personally, I think big caster is tremendously overrated, but in the end it is a driver-preference thing. I like mine minimized generally... 6 - 6.5degrees is fine, feel free to experiment with less or more.

Minimal rear toe is important for tire life and handling linearity. For toe I run zero front and 0.15 to 0.2 degrees total rear

For camber, you probably have as much as you want or need in back, I'd say -2 to -3 rear. Front camber, you probably want to maximize for tire clearance, I'd say maximum up to about -3

 

Its a street car, though...

Caster gives better feedback and steering on-center feel.

I'd trade caster for camber on a street car, personally. Caster has more benefits with less drawbacks.

 

Alright guys so together lol . So I should get my sheet for how my car is currently aligned and go off that as well ? Then ask to be close to

front camber 2.5 - 3?

rear camber about 3?

zero toe ?

as much caster as possible?
( I’m not too familiar with what caster does ? I like the road/tire to steering feedback. I want to feel the road I don’t like a light steering feeling I want the wheels communicating with me ? )

previously before I put my new rear tires on 255s from 245s my car was like a go kart in handling . Then after the new tires everything feels out of whack and the car is kinda sketchy . The front is loose, the steering is somewhat light and untruthful and it’s a lot of I guess you can say play in slight adjustments when Turning or adjusting the turn of that makes sense. I’m assuming this is all because I need an alignment , tire pressures are checked . Also here is some pictures of how my wheels currently sit and I’ve never adjusted any camber etc this is just natural from lowering car

 

"Better feedback" is debatable. My impression is that big caster adds some weight to the steering that can *mask* subtle goings-on at the front tire contact patch...
Again it's a driver-preference thing. I have found that I like minimal camber on the street and at the track.

I think you meant to say you'd trade camber for caster? Opposite for me, I'd rather maximize front camber, and set caster to the minimum. These cars are front-camber challenged anyway, even if I liked a lot of caster, I'd maximize camber first.. I've streeted with -3 front -2 rear for years on multiple cars and no driveability or excessive inside treadwear issues. Though track days about every 5k street miles tends to even it out!

 

Sure, if they can get it. If not take what you can get.

I'd say -2 to -3.

zero front toe or perhaps a tiny smidge of toe-in. A bit of rear toe-in is fine, but I wouldn't go more than 0.2 degrees total (that's less than a tenth of an inch total)

Caster does a few things, adds camber with steering angle, adds *weight* to steering, increases steering self-centering, also jacks with corner weighting with steering input. Like I said, I have found that *minimizing* caster works best for me. Practicallly everyone else thinks "more is always better". But I find that the increased weight corrupts feel at the steering wheel and makes the car feel less engaging and fun to drive as well. Like I said though, driver preference... If you don't know what you like yet, run somewhere in the middle of the range. Feel free to experiment here!

Hankook V12 evoIIs, huh. These tires are KNOWN for soft sidewalls and very poor handling feel. Hate to say it, but you got the wrong tires for go-kart handling...