yeah I believe 4.5 is too much as well I’ve noticed my cars ability to drive straight during acceleration is not as planted as it once was . Even with less camber I think I’d have enough room to clear my wheels and still kind of tuck the 255s . If I took my car to just get the rear camber and toe adjusted would they have to realign everything or just change those ?

 

Rear toe and rear camber are interrelated. Not related to anything up front. They might not be able to reduce toe without *adding* camber...

 

They should be able to adjust just the rear camber and toe by themselves.

You have a ton of front camber, though. Your tires are going to wear really fast up front. The front toes out during braking. And the caster scrub will add to the wear.

Y'all are keeping in mind that this is a street car? Do you plan to even track this to use some of that camber? Why so much camber?

 

Figure out what is important to you. Maximum grip? is tire wear more important? lowering just for looks? Toe is the real killer as said above. Camber not so much. Why run -3 degrees if you are not going to utilize it?

 

OP -4 camber in the rear is basically ridiculous, the car will not perform well. If you cant get at least -3, you really need to raise the rear of the car a good .5" to get you in that range - I think would look better there anyway) or run some upper adjustable camber joints so you can keep the height where it is and gain all the camber range you want/need. Also yes back off on the rear toe to half as much as where it is now.

Also going to say, not a good choice in tire if you want to have firm crisp sharp safe handling. The sidewalls are much softer then the tires that came on this car from the factory. Coupled with your current rear alignment, i've got to think this car is a real mess to drive in any fun sort of way and probably all out dangerous in the wet. Ideally id like to see your front camber dialed back closer to where it was before the alignment as well. -3 serves no benefit on the street, only detrimental by removing braking grip and overall lateral grip because the tires will never get up to even temps across the section width on the street, so you want less camber, not more in this environment. With your fender mods, you look to have room to back off to about half of where you are now all around and that would be my suggestion. -1.5F -2ish rear. Front toe and caster are fine.

 

17x9 +40 can clear the front fender with -1.5 or 2 degrees if using UPPER joints to pull the wheel inwards.

Idk if its possible with the stock point of adjustment


Unless these fenders are flapped out already?

 

His current ride height is going to be the first limiter here. He might be able to get to -2.5ish as is, which would still be better then the current -3.

Agree, if your going to play around with these kinds of ride heights or just want full range adjustability, upper camber joints are a must front and rear - and will help pull in or out the wheel to help with fitment as well. Based on my own adjustment, seems like a good 12-15mm you can push out or in the wheel going from least camber to most and controlling actual camber from aftermarket upper joint. This only helps the guys with aggressive wheels like this. Also for us tuning aficionados, nice to fine tune track width for handling.

But right now just trying to get this guys car to handle safe and best it can given its state of equip.

 

-3 front camber is not a big deal on the street, IMO.
-4.5 rear camber, that's a bit much... Especially with that much rear toe.