Window leak with hardtop
#1
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Window leak with hardtop
I have had my S2K for 6 months. Two months ago I took delivery of the hardtop. A few days later it was back at the dealer because the hardtop was rattling. We spoke with hardtopguy and he gave them some ideas, primarily use lots of schnitsu ( spelling ? ) grease. The car was a lot better. It has not rained for weeks down here. Last Friday it was pouring. When I got in my car I noticed water on the inside driver side window. Yesterday I sat in the car while my wife hosed the car. It seems as if the top of the window is not properly sealing against the gasket. Since the hardtop goes up and down, is there a way to align the hardtop differently so there is a good seal ?
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I have the same problem sometimes on both sides with heavy rain or after washing the car. I think the same leaks still occur with the soft top too. It isn't that much and I'm used to it so I'm not really bothered anymore. I'm in Socal so we don't get much rain, but I notice you are in Florida so you get more rain. As far as the rattling goes, I had some rattling from my strikers and catches. I used some threadlock on the bolts where the strikers are attached and the rattle is gone now. So check the strikers to see if they are loose. Good luck with the leak issue, I'm not sure what you could do.
Jason
Jason
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I have some leaks with every convertible I've owned, until I got my S2K. After the shin-it-su grease, no leaks with the hardtop or the soft top. I suspect it is either an adjustment issue or the moulding and I was just lucky. The hardtop installation manual describes adjustment of the windows for a snug interface between the hardtop and the top of the window. Good Luck
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Point a light from inside the car looking out, and look for gaps. If you can see light, you will get water.
Try some 1" X 1/2" outdoor foam(black-closed cell) to seal gaps. Sold in small coils with one adhesive side- in hardware stores
I found a 3"x 1/4" gap on both front sides of the HT beginning at the door edge. The foam tape did the trick.
In order to check the rear mounts just grab them an try to move side to side. If they move they have to be tightened, or every time you go over a bump the top will shift and you will get a "clicking" sound. You have to remove the interior trim panel by popping it off . This exposes the three bolts for the rear mounts. You have a limited range of adjustment, so you could, by pushing the rear brackets up, adjust rear HT height down,closer to the car body. Tighten bolts to about 14 ft/lbs.
Do not use the door glass as a 'handle' to close your door. You will, overtime, throw the glass out of adjustment. The procedure to adjust the glass is very difficult.
Regards
BD
Try some 1" X 1/2" outdoor foam(black-closed cell) to seal gaps. Sold in small coils with one adhesive side- in hardware stores
I found a 3"x 1/4" gap on both front sides of the HT beginning at the door edge. The foam tape did the trick.
In order to check the rear mounts just grab them an try to move side to side. If they move they have to be tightened, or every time you go over a bump the top will shift and you will get a "clicking" sound. You have to remove the interior trim panel by popping it off . This exposes the three bolts for the rear mounts. You have a limited range of adjustment, so you could, by pushing the rear brackets up, adjust rear HT height down,closer to the car body. Tighten bolts to about 14 ft/lbs.
Do not use the door glass as a 'handle' to close your door. You will, overtime, throw the glass out of adjustment. The procedure to adjust the glass is very difficult.
Regards
BD
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