Winterizing the S2..
12-28-2010, 12:44 PM
#1
Winterizing the S2..
Hey guys i'm sure there a a million threads on this but I want to get some sound advice before I search.. My car is kept in the garage and I just ordered a car cover for it. It seems our winter lasts a few months and I don't want it to sit still for 3 months, in fear of something happening.. What do most people recommend doing in these circumstances? I figured I would start up the car and let it idle up to warm temperatures twice a week with teh garage door open then shut her down. Is this necessary? Will I get any flat spots on my tires from it sitting still for three months or so? Any input or redirection to other posts like this would be appreciated. Thank you!!
12-28-2010, 01:56 PM
#2
Registered User
There is a lot of advice on this and honestly a lot of conflicting advice.
In my opinion all that is essential to do is fill the gas tank as full as possible and park the car, then in the spring change the engine oil.
What I do is fill the gas tank as full as possible, change the oil right before the car is put away, and again when I pull it out in the spring (probably overkill). I also change the trans and diff fluid in the spring. While the car is parked I have the windows cracked, a car cover on it and it is parked on raceramps flatstoppers (full disclosure I am sponsored by raceramps).
The car will probably develop flat spots on the tires, and these will probably go away after just a few miles of driving in the spring. You could buy some flatstoppers to park on to prevent this or I have heard others mention parking it on carpet squares or high density foam pieces reduce or eliminate flat spotting.
I have heard recommendations of putting the car on jack stands over the winter, if you do this be sure to remove the wheels because the suspension really wasn't designed to hang the wheels fully extended for periods of time. I actually wouldn't leave my car on jackstands for that long because I heard of a friend's 944 that the chassis actually warped after sitting on a lift for a number of years. Would it happen over 1 winter? Probably not but I'm happy leave my car sitting on the tires.
Some people will recommend putting a battery tender on the battery or even removing it and bringing it into the house. I just leave it in the car and accept that I may need to jump the car or even possibly replace the battery in the spring. That hasn't happened yet.
A lot of people will give a lot of advice and to be honest every piece of advice I've heard on the subject is grounded in logic and will not hurt. But in my opinion a modern car like the S2000, with modern fluids and fuels is perfectly capable of sitting for an extended period of time with minimal preparation.
In my opinion all that is essential to do is fill the gas tank as full as possible and park the car, then in the spring change the engine oil.
What I do is fill the gas tank as full as possible, change the oil right before the car is put away, and again when I pull it out in the spring (probably overkill). I also change the trans and diff fluid in the spring. While the car is parked I have the windows cracked, a car cover on it and it is parked on raceramps flatstoppers (full disclosure I am sponsored by raceramps).
The car will probably develop flat spots on the tires, and these will probably go away after just a few miles of driving in the spring. You could buy some flatstoppers to park on to prevent this or I have heard others mention parking it on carpet squares or high density foam pieces reduce or eliminate flat spotting.
I have heard recommendations of putting the car on jack stands over the winter, if you do this be sure to remove the wheels because the suspension really wasn't designed to hang the wheels fully extended for periods of time. I actually wouldn't leave my car on jackstands for that long because I heard of a friend's 944 that the chassis actually warped after sitting on a lift for a number of years. Would it happen over 1 winter? Probably not but I'm happy leave my car sitting on the tires.
Some people will recommend putting a battery tender on the battery or even removing it and bringing it into the house. I just leave it in the car and accept that I may need to jump the car or even possibly replace the battery in the spring. That hasn't happened yet.
A lot of people will give a lot of advice and to be honest every piece of advice I've heard on the subject is grounded in logic and will not hurt. But in my opinion a modern car like the S2000, with modern fluids and fuels is perfectly capable of sitting for an extended period of time with minimal preparation.
12-28-2010, 02:06 PM
#3
Registered User
Here's a sticky on the subject. If you went through all of these steps you'd be golden. I don't think they are all necessary.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=247621
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=247621
12-28-2010, 06:00 PM
#5
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That thread above has a very good list, although I don't do all of those things when I store my car for the winter (and I do a couple that aren't on there). Here's my short list...
-- Fill up with gas to as high a level as possible.
-- Stuff rags in the air intake and the tailpipes.
-- Remove battery and store inside, hooked up to a Battery Tender.
-- Grease door seals with Shin-Etsu.
-- Apply leather conditioner to seats.
-- Put on the cover (not a huge deal IMO).
-- I change the oil in the spring, after storage (I've read differing opinions on this; some say it's better to do it before storage).
-- During the storage period of ~4 months, I'll jack up the car once or twice and spin the tires 180° to reduce the chances of flat-spotting (did it once last year and noticed zero flat spotting when I drove it in the spring).
As that thread says, you shouldn't even start it again until you're ready to use it regularly. Starting it and running it at idle without actually driving it does more harm than good -- you're just adding cold starts, and you're not working the suspension or driveline components and seals. Yes you'll burn off any moisture that's built up in the oil and gasoline, but most likely there isn't that much there in the first place.
Also, I personally would never store a car on jack stands, with or without the wheels/tires installed. If you need to move that car in a hurry (fire or some other one in a million emergency), you may not have the time to get it back on the ground fast enough.
Just my $0.02.
-- Fill up with gas to as high a level as possible.
-- Stuff rags in the air intake and the tailpipes.
-- Remove battery and store inside, hooked up to a Battery Tender.
-- Grease door seals with Shin-Etsu.
-- Apply leather conditioner to seats.
-- Put on the cover (not a huge deal IMO).
-- I change the oil in the spring, after storage (I've read differing opinions on this; some say it's better to do it before storage).
-- During the storage period of ~4 months, I'll jack up the car once or twice and spin the tires 180° to reduce the chances of flat-spotting (did it once last year and noticed zero flat spotting when I drove it in the spring).
As that thread says, you shouldn't even start it again until you're ready to use it regularly. Starting it and running it at idle without actually driving it does more harm than good -- you're just adding cold starts, and you're not working the suspension or driveline components and seals. Yes you'll burn off any moisture that's built up in the oil and gasoline, but most likely there isn't that much there in the first place.
Also, I personally would never store a car on jack stands, with or without the wheels/tires installed. If you need to move that car in a hurry (fire or some other one in a million emergency), you may not have the time to get it back on the ground fast enough.
Just my $0.02.
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