2nd gear grind under hard acceleration
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From: OKC
2nd gear grind under hard acceleration
Hey guys. I have noticed a few times that under hard acceleration, my 1-2 shift results in me getting what feels like locked out of 2nd gear. I never launch the car. Everytime this has happened it goes like this: full throttle around 5k rpms in 1st to redline and when I go to shift to second, it feels like it is blocked. It only does this under hard acceleration. Everyday driving, the 1-2 shift is fine. No other gears are affected. What does this sound like? Probably just going to take it to the dealer. I just dont want to get charged for a bunch of extra stuff if it is not necessary. btw, the car is a 2003 with about 46000 miles. Tranny/diff fluids changed routinely around 10,000 miles with synthetic. Thanks for any help and sorry if this has been posted before. I couldnt find anythingin the sticky up top.
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From: OKC
Originally Posted by xviper,May 6 2006, 03:13 AM
Then I would say that this is not a chronic problem. It may simply be times when the tranny is hot and/or your clutch-throttle-shift technique is a bit sloppy when rushed. It wouldn't hurt to change the fluid. When was this done last?
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From: OKC
Originally Posted by xviper,May 6 2006, 05:08 AM
Depending on what fluid is in there, it's probably still good, however, some who use the GMSM-FM say it doesn't last very long (less than a few thousand miles), so if that's what you've got, it could be the fluid.
On some cars (my own included), when the clutch and tranny is HOT, I can easily beat the syncros going up into 2nd and grind. This is partly because the ratio difference between 1st and 2nd is the greatest compared to the difference between any other 2 adjacent gears. This shift requires the most finesse in matching revs OR, in working the syncros. When hot, it's tougher to get it just right. The timing for the clutch action, throttle off/on and shifter action must be more calculated.
The fundamental first signs of the clutch "going" is its inability to effectively and fully transmit power from the engine to the rest of the drivetrain (power to the ground). IE, it "slips". This is when you give it more gas and the rise in engine rpm does not proportionately result in a rise in road speed. To test this, you can do 1 of several things ................................
1. When rolling down the street in 2nd or 3rd gear, at about 4000 rpm, mash the gas. If the revs rise and the car doesn't take off commensurate with the rpm rise, then the clutch is slipping.
2. A more dramatic version of #1 is to do it going up a hill.
3. Rolling along in 2nd gear at about 5000 rpm, maintain throttle while applying brakes with your left foot. As the car slows down, the engine speed should also slow down. Try to give it a little more gas to keep the revs up. If the car slows down but the revs stay up, your clutch is nearly done. Do not continue this exercise if the rpms drop more than 2500 rpm. In this case, you've shown that the clutch is still OK, so don't continue to punish the car.
How long a clutch lasts on an S2000 depends solely on the driver. You can fry a clutch in a few thousand miles or it can last over 100,000 miles if you baby it all its life. It's all up to you. If you like to have fun and really "drive" the car, but know how to do it, you'll get something in between. The old saying, "You play, you pay" applies here.
You can launch the car twice really, really badly and take off TENS of thousands of miles off the clutch or you can launch it hundreds and hundreds of times properly and take very little off the clutch's life and all you'll do is burn up tire rubber.
On some cars (my own included), when the clutch and tranny is HOT, I can easily beat the syncros going up into 2nd and grind. This is partly because the ratio difference between 1st and 2nd is the greatest compared to the difference between any other 2 adjacent gears. This shift requires the most finesse in matching revs OR, in working the syncros. When hot, it's tougher to get it just right. The timing for the clutch action, throttle off/on and shifter action must be more calculated.
The fundamental first signs of the clutch "going" is its inability to effectively and fully transmit power from the engine to the rest of the drivetrain (power to the ground). IE, it "slips". This is when you give it more gas and the rise in engine rpm does not proportionately result in a rise in road speed. To test this, you can do 1 of several things ................................
1. When rolling down the street in 2nd or 3rd gear, at about 4000 rpm, mash the gas. If the revs rise and the car doesn't take off commensurate with the rpm rise, then the clutch is slipping.
2. A more dramatic version of #1 is to do it going up a hill.
3. Rolling along in 2nd gear at about 5000 rpm, maintain throttle while applying brakes with your left foot. As the car slows down, the engine speed should also slow down. Try to give it a little more gas to keep the revs up. If the car slows down but the revs stay up, your clutch is nearly done. Do not continue this exercise if the rpms drop more than 2500 rpm. In this case, you've shown that the clutch is still OK, so don't continue to punish the car.
How long a clutch lasts on an S2000 depends solely on the driver. You can fry a clutch in a few thousand miles or it can last over 100,000 miles if you baby it all its life. It's all up to you. If you like to have fun and really "drive" the car, but know how to do it, you'll get something in between. The old saying, "You play, you pay" applies here.
You can launch the car twice really, really badly and take off TENS of thousands of miles off the clutch or you can launch it hundreds and hundreds of times properly and take very little off the clutch's life and all you'll do is burn up tire rubber.
I have Mobil 1 synthetic tranny fluid in there right now. Any thoughts on Mobil 1? Any tips for getting better 1-2 shifts?
