Hi all, first time posting here. I have a '05 s2k that's getting ready for its 90k maintenance. Looking at the checklist, there's a lot of checks and doing everything at dealer will def be overpriced. Since this is my first major maintenance since buying the car used, which items do you guys think is more important and which ones can be left off? Here is the checklist (found on driverside.com):

Replace Cabin air filter
Inspect Drive Belt(s)
Inspect Fuel lines
Inspect Brake lines & hoses
Inspect Brake pedal assembly
Change fluid Rear differential
Inspect Steering system
Inspect Exhaust system
Inspect Fluid levels
Inspect Brake system
Inspect Suspension
Replace Crankcase Oil Filter
Change fluid Crankcase

also noticed this list is a bit different from a list i saw on here so if there's anything i should add, let me know. Thanks

 

When it comes to the inspections just take a look the best you can checking for leaks and unusual wear. If your not great with it have a friend who might be more mechanically inclined take a look. Make sure you do the transmission fluid, the rear diff fluid and obviously keep up with the oil changes. Also take a syringe to the clutch fluid and clean the reservoir the best you can then refill with dot 3 or 4 synthtic brake fluid. Make sure you check the air filter as it may never have been changed... Upgrading to kn would be a good idea. When it comes to cabin air filter i wouldnt sweat that too much. I have 86k on mine and thats what ive done for my maintenance.

 

Also a VA might be needed if you have some ticking. If you dont you can put it off for a bit but its a good idea to get the clearance checked soon

 

What are failures are you willing to risk? If the dealer's overpriced then find a decently priced and reputable shop or do some of this yourself. Fluid changes are definitely important -- especially if you haven't changed them yourself since purchasing the car.

 

Change the fluids and filters yourself. The rest can be done at the dealership for a reasonable price - and state up front that you don't want anything changed without your permission first (most of those items will probably be fine but if there is an issue, you want the chance to talk it over first).

 

Replace Cabin air filter (filter is 30 bucks or so, labor time to change it is about 40 seconds. dont get ripped off here)
Inspect Drive Belt(s) (there's only one drive belt, get a flashlight, and check the ribbed side for cracks, DIY)
Change fluid Rear differential (make sure they use Mobil1 75w90. There are factory Honda fluids that can kill the diff in days. ASK THEM WHAT FLUID they will use)
Inspect Fluid levels (DIY)
Inspect Brake system (check pad thikness, DIY, all you need is a flashlight. you dont even need to pull the wheels)


These items 99% chance you'll find nothing wrong
Inspect Fuel lines
Inspect Brake lines & hoses
Inspect Brake pedal assembly
Inspect Steering system
Inspect Exhaust system
Inspect Suspension

oil and lilter change:
Replace Crankcase Oil Filter
Change fluid Crankcase

Bottom line, going to the dealer you ARE NOT going to get your moneys worth. I wont say ripped off because techs need to put food on the table too. These "inspection checks" should be complimentary with an oil and filter SERVICE. thats why its called a service. you change the oil and filter, while on the lift you look for trouble.

Dealers make me sick. If they would only offer WORTHWHILE NEEDED SERVICES THAT APPLY TO A PARTICULAR VEHICLE. Where's the clutch fluid Honda? Get your head out of your ass

Now if Honda had a list like this, you might get your money's worth:

Custom Valve adjustment, retainer inspection, & spark plug torque check
Air filter
cabin filter
oil change Mobil1 & PCX filter, or ck oil and fliter torque
dif fluid change with Mobil1 75W90
trans fluid change with NEW Honda MTF
clutch fluid change
brake fluid change
spark plug replacement (Honda S2000 spec'd NGK's, not the ones you buy online)
clutch adj
throttle adj
inspect serp belt
air psi
Coolant flush
axle nut tsb
topdown mod
AC mod (02-09)
dash removal and bulb replacement for audio, heater, and cluster
Loose 12V outlet fix
soft-top anti-rip mod
soft-top anti-rip instruction
check brakes
Tire-saver toe-in adjustment, no alignment needed
general check-up
100k pulley inspection
motor mount inspection
camwheel bolt inspection

 

^^^ very nice, I wish I lived a lil closer to you Billman. It's an 18 hour drive from here

 

Sorry about the minor threadjacking, but could you elaborate on the difference between:
Honda's 98079-571BH SPARK PLUG (PFR7G-11S) (NGK)
and
Internet's NGK (7772) PFR7G-11S Laser Platinum Spark Plug, Pack of 1

I've noticed that they come in different color boxes, but I haven't been able to determine anything else. When I changed the plugs on my RSX-S, I used the NGKs listed and they looked identical (to my untrained eye) to the old plugs and seem to run well.

In addition, do you have any opinion on using the NGK IFR7G-11KS (iridium) plugs over the PRF7G11S (platinum) plugs? From what I've read iridium is supposed to have better wear properties and spark more easily, so I figure that I could use the iridium ones. According to the NGK chart they have the same temperature and gap, with the only listed differences being P (premium platinum) -> I (premium iridium) and the addition of [strike]S (special gasket)[/strike] K (Vibration-resistant Ground Electrode).

 

The ones in the Honda box come pre-gapped to .039. The are made by NGK for the S2000.

The ones in the NGK box will come gapped at about .030-.032.

If you buy non honda, it is critical you dont fracture the platinum when gapping. Because of this, gapping is not recommended.

 

The spec sheet says the gap is 0.044" (1.1mm) and my quick measurement using digital calipers one of plug shows a gap of 0.043".