When driving back home, I noticed that my ABS light was illuminated. After driving ~150 miles the light is still on and will not turn off.

I read the helms manual and performed the procedure to retrieve the DTC code which was code 22, a fault in the right front wheel sensor.

I first inspected the wheel sensor and hub teeth, both were perfectly intact. I also disconnected the wheel sensor clip (figured it was loose) but that lead no where. I also tried to reset the DTC code and it comes right back which is apparently a fault in the system before the reset of the DTC code.

Could this be a dead wheel sensor? Is there a way to check it with a voltmeter or something (trying not to buy a 100 dollar sensor on a whim).


Thanks
Jon

 

Its the LEFT front sensor (now that I read the manual again).

Is the driver side "left"

 

Yes drivers side is always left.

Let me follow you here...did you:

Reset the light, and get it to go out, and stay out, while the car in not in motion?

 

I used a paper clip and shorted pin 9 to pin 4 on the OBDII port, the SRS light flashed 2 long and 2 short indicating 22. I then did the reset procedure (holding the brake, letting off, etc) until it turned off, however it immediatly came back on about 2 seconds after I reset it. The helms manual says when that happens it means the fault was detected before the reset procedure took place.

I'm guessing it means that it picks up the code as soon as the car turns on (during is self diagnosis)?

After my attempt of a reset, I went out to drive the car and the light is still on and the abs is still not functioning. I'm thinking maybe my wheel sensor just decided to die?

 

Check the wire to the sensor...as much of it as you can. It may have been damaged or cut.

 

I'm going to get under the car again and see if something damaged it. I'd actually be surprised if this is the case as this was the only wheel not to be touched in a long time

 

I jiggled all the wiring on the wheel sensor and still no go. Is there any test with a voltmeter to test if the sensor is dead?

Should I just replace the sensor all together?

 

If it's money saving you're looking for, is switching the left-hand and right-hand sensor an option? You should get another code, otherwise you know it's not the sensor itself.

Take care,


Siepel

 

Pull the connector and put your vom across the pins. Spin the hub and look for voltage. The wheel sensor is a hall effect sensor that creates a small pulse everytime a tooth passes it. An ocillascope would be best, but who has those lying around?

 

I just tested all 4 wheel sensors with a voltmeter and they are all working fine (I get a voltage when I spin each wheel). I also obtained contunitity (sp) going from each connector to the ABS module.

Now I'm stumped...