AC blew up... ($1500?)
07-18-2015, 09:37 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
AC blew up... ($1500?)
So my AC quit working a few weeks ago and i was told most likely the compressor went out and when it does it will send metal shavings threw the system. I was advised to replace everything in the AC system and was quoted about $1500 for parts and labor....
Does anyone have experience with this and any idea what a good price would might be to get it fixed.... is it worth it to buy used parts???
Does anyone have experience with this and any idea what a good price would might be to get it fixed.... is it worth it to buy used parts???
07-19-2015, 04:22 AM
#2
If the compressor did indeed send shavings through the system, yes everything should be replaced, unfortunately. Otherwise any leftover shavings well destroy the new compressor and you end up right back where you started.
Off the top of my head, that price doesn't sound unreasonable, though I'd always get a second opinion for an expensive repair like that.
Off the top of my head, that price doesn't sound unreasonable, though I'd always get a second opinion for an expensive repair like that.
07-19-2015, 09:57 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
If the compressor did indeed send shavings through the system, yes everything should be replaced, unfortunately. Otherwise any leftover shavings well destroy the new compressor and you end up right back where you started.
Off the top of my head, that price doesn't sound unreasonable, though I'd always get a second opinion for an expensive repair like that.
Off the top of my head, that price doesn't sound unreasonable, though I'd always get a second opinion for an expensive repair like that.
07-19-2015, 12:40 PM
#5
What happened, is your compressor making a terribly disgusting grinding noise? Was it squeaking before it happened? Or is it just not blowing cold air any more? If your compressor is kaput, then at minimum you will need to evacuate the system, vacuum it for at least 30 min, and replace the compressor along with the drier/receiver and a new expansion valve. These are rotary compressors, they are not pistons, so they're not extremely likely to send metal shards up in the system even if the compressor fails.
If the only thing that you need is a recharge, you should still replace the drier and the expansion valve given the age of the car. It's also a good idea to add the right amount of PAG oil and change all the O-rings. The ones that hook up to the lines from the compressor, the two lines going to and out of the drier/receiver, as well as the o-ring for the thermal switch on the drier/receiver, and finally the two O-rings for the expansion valve. These parts are not expensive, it costs more to have a shop recover/vaccum/test for leaks/and recharge the system with oil and refrigerant.
You vacuum an A/C system because lowering the pressure of the system lowers the boiling point of water making it easier to remove moisture from the system. Most shops only do a 30 min vacuum because time is money, the longer you do it the better because more moisture gets pulled from the system.
As a point of warning I would only recharge an AC system once, because if you're leaking refrigerant you're also leaking oil. If you need to recharge again, then you should recover the system, and at a minimum replace the drier.
If you want to save money on labor have the shop evacuate the system and change out the drier and expansion valve yourself. They're easily changed, and afterwards have the shop vacuum, leak test and charge the system with oil and refrigerant. Leak testing involves seeing if the system can maintain vacuum for 2 minutes, if you have a leak in the system it won't hold vacuum.
It's cheaper to have a shop do this than buying the tools to do it yourself, to do proper A/C recovery, and recharge, you'll easily be $650 in tools, plus you also have to know what you're doing. When to access the high side, how to read pressures so you don't over fill etc.
If the only thing that you need is a recharge, you should still replace the drier and the expansion valve given the age of the car. It's also a good idea to add the right amount of PAG oil and change all the O-rings. The ones that hook up to the lines from the compressor, the two lines going to and out of the drier/receiver, as well as the o-ring for the thermal switch on the drier/receiver, and finally the two O-rings for the expansion valve. These parts are not expensive, it costs more to have a shop recover/vaccum/test for leaks/and recharge the system with oil and refrigerant.
You vacuum an A/C system because lowering the pressure of the system lowers the boiling point of water making it easier to remove moisture from the system. Most shops only do a 30 min vacuum because time is money, the longer you do it the better because more moisture gets pulled from the system.
As a point of warning I would only recharge an AC system once, because if you're leaking refrigerant you're also leaking oil. If you need to recharge again, then you should recover the system, and at a minimum replace the drier.
If you want to save money on labor have the shop evacuate the system and change out the drier and expansion valve yourself. They're easily changed, and afterwards have the shop vacuum, leak test and charge the system with oil and refrigerant. Leak testing involves seeing if the system can maintain vacuum for 2 minutes, if you have a leak in the system it won't hold vacuum.
It's cheaper to have a shop do this than buying the tools to do it yourself, to do proper A/C recovery, and recharge, you'll easily be $650 in tools, plus you also have to know what you're doing. When to access the high side, how to read pressures so you don't over fill etc.
07-19-2015, 01:01 PM
#6
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I agree with Slowcrash_101.
I have been self-servicing my lot of ac units for many years. All of my mechanical problems (failed compressors and other leaks) have occurred exclusively from domestic autos, in varying degrees. All of my Honda (Acura) and Toyota vehicles have been trouble free.
The least expensive thing to do is to perform a simple recharge and see if you have a leak. Do it yourself for <$50. Once you have enough R134 in the system, providing all systems are normal, the pressure switch will close on the compressor engaging the electromagnetic clutch. Don't overcharge; get a gauge with the system. Your leak may be slow enough that you will just enjoy the cold air and wonder why you did not do that sooner. If you find a leak, you can address it, depending on the severity.
I have a couple of cars (Ford) that I throw a can in at least every year. Been doing that for many years. It is a good idea to run the compressor every few weeks to lubricate the seals; it help with the leaks.
I have been self-servicing my lot of ac units for many years. All of my mechanical problems (failed compressors and other leaks) have occurred exclusively from domestic autos, in varying degrees. All of my Honda (Acura) and Toyota vehicles have been trouble free.
The least expensive thing to do is to perform a simple recharge and see if you have a leak. Do it yourself for <$50. Once you have enough R134 in the system, providing all systems are normal, the pressure switch will close on the compressor engaging the electromagnetic clutch. Don't overcharge; get a gauge with the system. Your leak may be slow enough that you will just enjoy the cold air and wonder why you did not do that sooner. If you find a leak, you can address it, depending on the severity.
I have a couple of cars (Ford) that I throw a can in at least every year. Been doing that for many years. It is a good idea to run the compressor every few weeks to lubricate the seals; it help with the leaks.
07-19-2015, 02:01 PM
#7
My TSX compressor literally exploded a few weeks ago. I changed the compressor and condensor to be safe.. No issues yet. The drier is in the condensor on that car and it was full of metal.
You can actually flush lines and components but the condensor and evaporator will be hard to get totally clean from shavings.
I would do as others have said and buy a can of refrigerant with a hose/gauge and see what happens when you hook it up.
You can actually flush lines and components but the condensor and evaporator will be hard to get totally clean from shavings.
I would do as others have said and buy a can of refrigerant with a hose/gauge and see what happens when you hook it up.
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07-20-2015, 04:05 AM
#9
It's a good idea to change the drier once every 3 - 5 years. That drier is the only thing keeping moisture out of the system. Water mixes with refrigerant and forms an acid, this acid is corrosive and will eat everything from the inside out. It also destroys the seals, and once the seals go, the refrigerant goes and takes oil with it. Once you've leaked enough oil, it will take out the compressor. Recharging once or twice is fine, any more and you start affecting compressor life if you don't add oil. But you'll never know how much oil you need until you recover the system, or at least have some expensive tools.
07-20-2015, 06:59 AM
#10
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If you do go down the parts replacement path, I strongly advise you spend the extra $ and obtain OEM stuff. You can buy aftermarket parts cheaper but I can tell you from personal experience, all the replaced compressors (2) I have done that way failed early.