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AC compressor re-installed..worth it?

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Old 09-16-2017, 10:12 AM
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Default AC compressor re-installed..worth it?

When I purchased my car it didn't come with the compressor but all the lines, condenser etc. remained. The previous owner removed it to save weight and took it to the track a lot. I didn't think too much of it because at the time I was like "hey it's a convertible...i won't need AC." The problem is it's hard to take the car on long trips because it can get hot and uncomfortable at times. The real issue is if it rains. It takes forever for the windows to defog. I'm prepping to move to FL where I'll really need it because of all the rain and the high temps.

So I ended up getting a compressor off ebay along with the mounting bolts. I figure it shouldn't be a difficult job for my mechanic to do because everything is there for him. But now...He's refusing to do it and says my system is likely contaminated. I was under the impression that this was a simple task of just adding some freon and maybe flushing out the old stuff. He told me it's not worth it and the diagnostics are costly and it could cost over a grand. So is he right or overreacting? He hasn't even looked under my hood yet.

Just looking to see if anyone maybe removed their compressor for track purposes and had any issues putting it back in and getting the system back 100%. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Old 09-16-2017, 11:08 AM
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AC systems need to remain closed at all times, otherwise water / dirt will get in and destroy the system (corrode the lines internally, move dirt through the compressor internals / etc). Every time you open the system you're supposed to replace the dryer.

With that said, your mechanic is covering his own ass because he knows if he warranties the system it has a high chance of coming back on him.
Old 09-16-2017, 12:44 PM
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i just installed a AC system into my s2k that had it removed by the previous owner.

like Chibo said you need a new dryer (the cylinder thing in front of the radiator)

after you install everything you put the whole system under vacuum to suck out all the shit then you use the vacuum to suck in the new refrigerant.
Old 09-16-2017, 01:08 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. One replacement part shouldn't be too costly.

Where do you suggest I purchase a new dryer from? In the meantime, I'll call the dealer on Monday for a quote.
Old 09-16-2017, 04:56 PM
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I went with a 15$ ebay one
Old 09-16-2017, 05:49 PM
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As long as the lines were plugged up during those time, you should be okay. Re-install compressor with new oil and dryer.
Old 09-17-2017, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Chibo
he knows if he warranties the system it has a high chance of coming back on him.
Which isn't really likely if OP moves to Florida .....
Old 09-17-2017, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by freq
Which isn't really likely if OP moves to Florida .....
I didn't even see that, but I think my point stands.
Old 09-18-2017, 07:29 AM
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I hear ya Chibo and thanks for the input guys. I called my local dealer and they want $115 for the OEM dryer.

But I checked on eBay and Amazon (with the advice of s2000ellier) and I can get it for about $15 shipped through prime. So I guess question is are these cheaper dryers still good? I'm sure it will do the job just fine and get me up and running again which is the goal.

Here's the link.
https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-0283003-C-Accumulator/dp/B006ZVM1SC/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Honda%7C59&Model=S2000%7C760&Year=2000%7C2000&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-0283003-C-Accumulator/dp/B006ZVM1SC/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Honda%7C59&Model=S2000%7C760&Year=2000%7C2000&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive
Old 09-18-2017, 09:45 AM
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I'd go one step further and replace the expansion valve as well in addition to the drier. It's relatively straightforward to charge the system, if the lines were plugged, it should be fine. Get an R134 o-ring kit, PAG 46 compressor oil, and 1.3lbs of refrigerant. You'll also need a good manifold gauge, you want one that lets your regulate the hard line schrader valve(the fittings on the hard line), along with a vacuum pump and a service line along with a tap(shouldn't be more than $200 for a very decent setup all in). The reason you want to vacuum the system is because it lowers the boiling point of water, turning it into vapor and making it easier to pull out of the system. I'd vacuum for a good 2 hours minimum if the lines have been exposed(ie not plugged). Afterwards see if the system holds a vacuum if it does then you know you don't have any leaks. If the compressor didn't go kablooey then there's no need to worry about the system being contaminated by anything other than moisture. Before hooking up the compressor I'd add oil, total system capacity is ~4oz, but you can also add oil once everything is hooked up, add it right through the yellow service line, you will need to have the car and ac system running and both low and high pressure fittings open to draw in oil to the system. Adding refrigerant is the same(car running A/C on) except you only use the low side pressure fitting, fill to about 45-55psi low side, or between 1.1 to 1.3lbs of refrigerant. PM me if you have any questions.


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