Accelerated Engine Break-In.
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Originally Posted by cjb80,Nov 15 2004, 05:00 AM
The engine needs pressure to properly 'file' the piston rings to perfectly match the cylinder walls. The cylinder walls are honed which acts like a file. The honing wears off after about 20 minutes, so those first 20 minutes of the engine running are pretty critical. If you have more cylinder pressure during that period in time, it puts more pressure on the rings, which - in theory - get a better seal.
After 20 minutes or so however the honing is done. Any critical engine problems will show up during that period of time as well. If all is well, I would say you're good to go after that.....
Chris
After 20 minutes or so however the honing is done. Any critical engine problems will show up during that period of time as well. If all is well, I would say you're good to go after that.....
Chris
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From: Franklin TN
I would get it on a loading dyno if at all possible. Controlled conditions and as much non-street-legal mileage as you can manage. Rent one for half a day and you'll be set - probably will cost less than taking it easy on the car for the one track event you had planned on.
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From: Lafayette, LA
I've always wondered about this. If this guy is right about hard engine break-ins producing more hp, wouldn't it be unattainable on a new car if you want to properly break in your clutch, diff, etc.?
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I'm getting my car back in a week or so with a brand new engine so I want to get this clear.. If I break it in like honda suggests (not flooring it, no high rpm) is this breaking it in like a "granny"? I use my car at the track for time attacks and I also drive it on the street. I don't want my engine to not be able to handle the stress of hard track driving. (my last engine drank oil). What would be best break-in procedure for someone in my scenario?
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: 17 ft below sea level.
There is one important thing that is different in the F20C (and F22C) and that are the FRM cylinder liners.
FRM = Fibre Reinforced Metal.
After reading about that inhere I understand it takes longer to break them in.
Longer then the common cylinder liners.
The "hard break-in way" usually refers to common cylinder liners. They loose the honing grooves with 30 miles ? of driving.
Hard break-in during that period may have benefits for the piston ring / cylinder liner combination.
I don't know if that also counts for a FRM liner / piston ring combination.
I hope this info helps you looking for more info.
Its your engine
FRM = Fibre Reinforced Metal.
After reading about that inhere I understand it takes longer to break them in.
Longer then the common cylinder liners.
The "hard break-in way" usually refers to common cylinder liners. They loose the honing grooves with 30 miles ? of driving.
Hard break-in during that period may have benefits for the piston ring / cylinder liner combination.
I don't know if that also counts for a FRM liner / piston ring combination.
I hope this info helps you looking for more info.
Its your engine
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Knoxville, TN
Originally Posted by -KEY!S2K-,Jul 5 2006, 09:34 AM
I want to get this clear... I use my car at the track for time attacks and I also drive it on the street. I don't want my engine to not be able to handle the stress of hard track driving. (my last engine drank oil). What would be best break-in procedure for someone in my scenario?