Advice - Good Engine pulled Apart
#1
Advice - Good Engine pulled Apart
I purchased an S2000 AP1 engine with approx 40,000. The previous owner (whom I trust), was going to spec up the oem unit for a track car. Their plans changed abruptly and it ended up in my hands. I am now going to reassemble the engine.
I am quite familiar with engines - but I'm not a mechanic. I'm seeking a bit of advice in putting the engine back together
This is what I'm thinking:
The block is still complete, so crankshaft, rods, pistons etc are all good (the bores look pristine too).
I am going to purchase oem head gasket, head bolts, AP2 retainers and cotters for the inlet side, valve stem seals, rocker cover seal, spark plug seal.
I have replaced AP2 retainers on my S2000 prior so I'm familiar with what's involved to that point, but installing the head etc will be new to me. I have a workshop manual and obviously will be torquing everything to spec.
If somebody with experience has some pitfalls or advice please chime in. Thanks.
As an aside it's a JDM engine with the higher compression ratio.
I am quite familiar with engines - but I'm not a mechanic. I'm seeking a bit of advice in putting the engine back together
This is what I'm thinking:
The block is still complete, so crankshaft, rods, pistons etc are all good (the bores look pristine too).
I am going to purchase oem head gasket, head bolts, AP2 retainers and cotters for the inlet side, valve stem seals, rocker cover seal, spark plug seal.
I have replaced AP2 retainers on my S2000 prior so I'm familiar with what's involved to that point, but installing the head etc will be new to me. I have a workshop manual and obviously will be torquing everything to spec.
If somebody with experience has some pitfalls or advice please chime in. Thanks.
As an aside it's a JDM engine with the higher compression ratio.
#2
Get new rings gap them carefully on only one side and make sure the ends are parallel. Go OEM. No honing needed just break in the rings like a new engine.
#3
Follow the workshop manual
measure the head is in within "spec" as its prone to distort if removed incorrectly.
measure the head is in within "spec" as its prone to distort if removed incorrectly.
#4
Noodels the person that pulled the engine apart is a very good mechanic so I doubt he would have taken the tension off the head unevenly - but it makes sense to test it regardless.
#6
I mean you could definitely send it as is with a new head gasket and it's probably fine with such low miles. OP has the engine already disassembled and is going to put it back together. Might as well re-ring it and get the most life you can out of the engine.
The rings begin wearing ~160k mile mark, car will still run just fine but the oil consumption starts creeping up.
The rings begin wearing ~160k mile mark, car will still run just fine but the oil consumption starts creeping up.
#7
Registered User
it's unclear if the short block is disassembled. i would leave it as is if short block is assembled.
best advice is to have the service manual, it's very detailed with pictures. make sure you understand the head bolt torque spec instructions, it can be confusing.
some people mis-route the coolant, idle air hoses and flush coolant into the cylinders.
remember to connect the ground wire or the car won't start.
best advice is to have the service manual, it's very detailed with pictures. make sure you understand the head bolt torque spec instructions, it can be confusing.
some people mis-route the coolant, idle air hoses and flush coolant into the cylinders.
remember to connect the ground wire or the car won't start.
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clio (03-27-2018)
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#9
it's unclear if the short block is disassembled. i would leave it as is if short block is assembled.
best advice is to have the service manual, it's very detailed with pictures. make sure you understand the head bolt torque spec instructions, it can be confusing.
some people mis-route the coolant, idle air hoses and flush coolant into the cylinders.
remember to connect the ground wire or the car won't start.
best advice is to have the service manual, it's very detailed with pictures. make sure you understand the head bolt torque spec instructions, it can be confusing.
some people mis-route the coolant, idle air hoses and flush coolant into the cylinders.
remember to connect the ground wire or the car won't start.
#10
re head bolts, my understanding via workshop manual is to torque them to a set figure, followed by 3x 90 degree turns (new head bolts), with each step in set sequence so that it pulls down evenly.