Ok, I got the radiator fans to switch on at 180F, by disabling AC in the EMS... Though I can see the AC compressor overheating if I am using it while at a standstill.

Car ran ok... Idled at 900-1000 after adjustment, other then that seamed a bit ruff like a big block sounds. (Thud, thud, thud) I'm thinking the timing is slighly off, but I am not sure how to adjust this yet... Going to call torque freaks tonight for guidance.

So far I've adjusted
-The O2 gain.
-Throttle zero and max.
-Idle fuel tables.

Need to adjust timing, and AFR of idle... maybe tomorrow.

As for modfries... I'd like to get the car streetable before I spend more money on aftermarket toys. Besides until i do, I don't know if I'm going to have to do other repairs, or get replacement parts. Until then I'll have to monitor the temp's via a laptop.

 

Will a bone stock S2000 benefit from an EMS?

 

The short answer is yes a bone stock S will see improvements. Any car that can be fine tunned with the use of a standalone computer will see improvements in all areas of the car if properly done.

But the gains that you will see will mots likely be minimal as in 5-10 hp deffinitly and maybe more depending on your car. It all depends on if you want to spend the money on it.

I believe that someone from horsepower freaks said before that he did not recommend it for the S unless FI was used.

 

where is sean now anyway?
Hes not at horse power freaks anymore.
And has anyone paid for him to fly out to you and tune your car?
was there a group thing on this?
what did ppl like s2000 Europe do?

marcus

 

Sean isn't working there anymore and is now working at Microsoft again.

 

Has anyone tried the new V1.1 basemap? I got my EMS about a month or two ago and haven't yet installed it.

I wanted a basemap that I could start the car and drive over to the tuner....I see on the AEM forum that v1.1 is the basemap. With their posted dynograph, I'm assuming the gains they found were for an NA S2K (assumed from seeing that the 2001 car they tested was showing a peak hp of 213 after the EMS install).

Is there anything I need to know using that basemap before I start the motor up, or even get into the street?

 

If you are stock or even bolt on, then...no I think the basemap is perfectly fine. You won't need to worry about anything.

If you want to go on the safe side you can always pull 2 degrees of timing from everywhere but I don't feel it's necessary.

But I drove about 20 miles, with the unmodified basemap, to the dyno nearby and did not worry at all.

 

Stoner: Not sure if you got your problems sorted out yet or not, but if you need any help with the AEM you can ask me, Ive been using the s2k specific aem ecu nearly every day for over a year, and i am very familiar with the system.

To set the timing:
What you want to do is make sure that the ecu knows where tdc is for cyl 1. IE you will tell it where 0 is. You will need two people and a laptop to do this.
here are two ways to do it, for both you will need to view the parameter "ign timing" or "ignition timing".

1st method
a) warm up get to idle and let the car sit at a steady idle
b) clamp a timing light over the cable/s leading to coil 1
c) point timing light at crank and make sure that it the value that shows up when the light flashes is the same as what the viewd parameter says.
d) if not you can go to configure->ecu setup->set ignition timing
e) the number displayed should be the same as the previously viewed parameter, now you can adjust in either direction (coarse or fine), till the light flashes at the right marking.

Note: the value displayed on the screen will not change when you press retard or advance, what will change is the value that shows up on the crank as the light flashes. What you are doing is like changing what the ecu thinks zero is.


2nd method- use this method if you dont have steady idle
a)use ecu to turn off fuel pump, injectors,coils (fuel pump is in option->configure outputs , the one corresponding to fuel pump, injectors/coils are in options->injectors or ->coils), for injectors turn off 1->4, and for coils turn off 2->4.
b) remove spark plugs from all four cylinders (less resistance=more constant speed)
c) gound sparkplug on coil #1, to the block securely
d) attach timing light to coil#1 leads
e)crank engine and view parameters
f) repeat method 1 steps to adjust timing

note: method 2 will kill your battery quick so its good to use a charger that can handle cranking loads while you do this.

---------------------------
after you are confident of either idle or cranking timing, you may want to make sure it is correct for a higher rpm (drift), which will need to be done while holding the the throttle steady to keep the engine at a nice rpm like 5k or something.


regarding a/f ratio at idle, when you adjust this keep in mind that you want play with fuel first, and then maybe timing (completely not related to above rant about timing). Given that idle is a low load situation it shouldnt be bad to run it a little lean at idle. This is provided that your cooling system is upto the challenge (no reason why it shouldnt be, but lack of airflow due to car not moving is a potential concern). Also im pretty sure s2k runs lean at idle OEM , but double check to confirm.



If you dont understand some of the things that ive said feel free to ask, but keep in mind that you should not do what ive mentioned with blind faith. You can cause seroius damage to your motor by messing with the aem incorecctly. And ofcourse, I accept no responsibility for anything.. at all...

 

tizbad2k- Thank you for your reply, and I must say it's about one of the most informative thus far.

Update: I've just gotten a new base map from Torquefreaks that should help a bit with my cold start issues. As for tweeking in my timing, I'm planning on trying it this weekend if all goes well.

BTW tizbad2k: my E-mail is "kevinstonehouse@yahoo.com" and my Skype address is "kevin_in_italy"

 

good to know it was helpful, check your email i asked for some info


As far as tweaking timing goes:
This is only applicable if you plan on setting the timing like a mentioned above. However if you plan on tweaking timing for tuning (ie power/tq or a/f) you should know the following.

Minor timing adjustments are the last step of the tuning process. If your motor runs and you know the the timing is generally correct (same as aem base map, or other supplied source), what you need to do first in the tuning process is get the fuel correct for all ranges of operation (rpm vs load). Once the fuel is tuned to get the desired results, then you can start working on minor timing adjustments. While you tweak the timing you may want to adjust the fuel slightlyl it will be an interative process.

This is because the gains from timing tweaking is minimal unless the fuel is correct. Also in general the timing should be fairly linear with rpm except for where vtec comes in, and near the end of the rpm scale where it should sort of level off.

let me know if you have any other q's, its probably better to communicate on the forum so there can be a record, and others can chime in.