AEM V.2 Installed w/Pictures
12-25-2003, 06:48 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
A portion of the tubing is now larger diameter, supposedly producing beneficial results. The dyno will tell...
http://www.aempower.com/product_intake.asp
http://www.aempower.com/product_intake.asp
12-27-2003, 12:04 AM
#18
i installed mine today, didnt get to take any pictures though (dad had the digi camera) its easier with two people (me and my cousin) heres a lil walkthrough.
1) removal of stock intake box was easy. 3 bolts and its off.
2) swapping of old air/vacuum/coolant lines a lil harder, seems that the coolant line was fused to the pipe
i was worried about draining the coolant because it says to in the instructions but i opted not to and finally got it off, spilt a lil onto the floor but not alot to be concerned about. Out went the old metal tubes in with the new supplied by AEM.
3) Shorter section of v2 pipe went on easily, lined up hoses correctly and zip tied them away so they could cause no damage to the belts.
4) jacked car up (was PITA with the stock honda jack, but no other jack could fit, plus we used an old jackstand from my brothers 68 grand prix, a lil higher then the one we usually use which made the process take longer then usual.
5) I didn't want to take off the front bumper (my amuse style lip is a pain to take on and off) so we took off the passenger wheel and undid enough bolts to lift back the wheel well lining as well as the spashguard.
6) The hardest part (if you dont have a drill or the bumpers not completely off.) is cutting the fender lining and spashguard to fit the pipe. Using paramedic scissors and a handsaw blade, my cousin feverishly cut and tore enough of it off so that it could make its way through. though some of it remains and is laying against the pipe.
A) make sure on the reinforcement rubber mount to have a small ratchet or wrench (used a wrench) to tighten it enough, its tough but with enough force and holding the mount from the other side, it can be done. Same goes for when the piping is connected.
7) routing the piping through the tight spaces is tough if you dont wanna scratch the pipe itself, i however didnt mind a few labor touches and jammed it on home. Put the filter on and tighthened it down, as well as the connecting rubber piece between the long and short pipes.
8) put back the wheel well lining and splashguards (why is it you either have one piece leftover or one piece missing at the end of the install??) Tested all mounts, clamps, hoses and tripled checked everything to make sure nothing was loose or could become loose.
9) lowered car (ugh) and reset ecu with fuse method.
10) turned on car to let warm up.
11) had a cookie.
12) still reading?
13) let off a few revs, very noticiable hum noise from intake, also deeper and lower then the PRM. When driving, the powerband seems smoother with out any lag in the rpms (i felt a lag from 4-6 before the intake.) Pulls harder to redline and overall seems a lil faster (must be exhaust and intake sound).
Install grade- b
Install time- a lil under 4 hours.
Other UTH Mods- RS*R single exhaust, Mugen Radiator cap and oil cap.
Its tough without the right tools and time consuming to boot, i didn't like having to cut the lining but overall im not fearing any hydrolock problems because of the way its tucked into the bumper. I still have my faux ducts intact and they'll stay that way, no need to invite water into the chamber.
Well worth the 250 spent.
1) removal of stock intake box was easy. 3 bolts and its off.
2) swapping of old air/vacuum/coolant lines a lil harder, seems that the coolant line was fused to the pipe
i was worried about draining the coolant because it says to in the instructions but i opted not to and finally got it off, spilt a lil onto the floor but not alot to be concerned about. Out went the old metal tubes in with the new supplied by AEM.3) Shorter section of v2 pipe went on easily, lined up hoses correctly and zip tied them away so they could cause no damage to the belts.
4) jacked car up (was PITA with the stock honda jack, but no other jack could fit, plus we used an old jackstand from my brothers 68 grand prix, a lil higher then the one we usually use which made the process take longer then usual.
5) I didn't want to take off the front bumper (my amuse style lip is a pain to take on and off) so we took off the passenger wheel and undid enough bolts to lift back the wheel well lining as well as the spashguard.
6) The hardest part (if you dont have a drill or the bumpers not completely off.) is cutting the fender lining and spashguard to fit the pipe. Using paramedic scissors and a handsaw blade, my cousin feverishly cut and tore enough of it off so that it could make its way through. though some of it remains and is laying against the pipe.
A) make sure on the reinforcement rubber mount to have a small ratchet or wrench (used a wrench) to tighten it enough, its tough but with enough force and holding the mount from the other side, it can be done. Same goes for when the piping is connected.
7) routing the piping through the tight spaces is tough if you dont wanna scratch the pipe itself, i however didnt mind a few labor touches and jammed it on home. Put the filter on and tighthened it down, as well as the connecting rubber piece between the long and short pipes.
8) put back the wheel well lining and splashguards (why is it you either have one piece leftover or one piece missing at the end of the install??) Tested all mounts, clamps, hoses and tripled checked everything to make sure nothing was loose or could become loose.
9) lowered car (ugh) and reset ecu with fuse method.
10) turned on car to let warm up.
11) had a cookie.
12) still reading?
13) let off a few revs, very noticiable hum noise from intake, also deeper and lower then the PRM. When driving, the powerband seems smoother with out any lag in the rpms (i felt a lag from 4-6 before the intake.) Pulls harder to redline and overall seems a lil faster (must be exhaust and intake sound).
Install grade- b
Install time- a lil under 4 hours.
Other UTH Mods- RS*R single exhaust, Mugen Radiator cap and oil cap.
Its tough without the right tools and time consuming to boot, i didn't like having to cut the lining but overall im not fearing any hydrolock problems because of the way its tucked into the bumper. I still have my faux ducts intact and they'll stay that way, no need to invite water into the chamber.
Well worth the 250 spent.
12-27-2003, 07:29 AM
#19
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Land of the landeaus
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Guys, speaking as someone who has spent more time tinkering with intakes than just about anyone else on the board, some quick observations.
1. Open intakes will always be louder than intakes
that enclose the filter (Comptech, PRM, OEM, Mugen, etc).
Is this good? Well, it depends. Things might sound meaner but unfortunately, they tend to "tune out" the exhaust note so if you'd rather hear more intake honk than exhaust honk, an open filter will do it for ya.
2. Never confuse "db's" with "hp's." It's human tendency to think because something is louder, you're moving faster. Not always the case. My Weapon R is the loudest intake I've had (five different intakes have been on my car) but probably makes about the same horsepower as all the others until I get up around 60+ mph plus and then the air
ducting comes into play but that isn't the intake, rather a separate element of it.
3. The difference between all these various intakes
with regards to performance is no more than 2-3hp
which you're not going to "feel." Not trying to burst the bubbles but in most cases, the biggest differences in all these intakes comes from "asthetics and sound" more than "increased horsepower."
Afterall, there is only so many paths for 3-inch tubing to travel. Looking at the AEM, the Injen
and K&N Typhoon, they basically are using the same
principal of design.
I think the latest version probably manipulates the
power but in the end, peak hp is probably still the
same as the lst version.
I do like the charcoal-like color though. That is nice. The other colors look too much like licorice
sticks.
1. Open intakes will always be louder than intakes
that enclose the filter (Comptech, PRM, OEM, Mugen, etc).
Is this good? Well, it depends. Things might sound meaner but unfortunately, they tend to "tune out" the exhaust note so if you'd rather hear more intake honk than exhaust honk, an open filter will do it for ya.
2. Never confuse "db's" with "hp's." It's human tendency to think because something is louder, you're moving faster. Not always the case. My Weapon R is the loudest intake I've had (five different intakes have been on my car) but probably makes about the same horsepower as all the others until I get up around 60+ mph plus and then the air
ducting comes into play but that isn't the intake, rather a separate element of it.
3. The difference between all these various intakes
with regards to performance is no more than 2-3hp
which you're not going to "feel." Not trying to burst the bubbles but in most cases, the biggest differences in all these intakes comes from "asthetics and sound" more than "increased horsepower."
Afterall, there is only so many paths for 3-inch tubing to travel. Looking at the AEM, the Injen
and K&N Typhoon, they basically are using the same
principal of design.
I think the latest version probably manipulates the
power but in the end, peak hp is probably still the
same as the lst version.
I do like the charcoal-like color though. That is nice. The other colors look too much like licorice
sticks.
12-27-2003, 10:49 AM
#20
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: cooper city
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i like what they did on the lower mounting point for the cai. the v1 mounted to a lower rad stay. and sometimes it would rub and make noises. i see they fixed that.