Air Box Mods
05-11-2014, 02:21 PM
#1
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Air Box Mods
Do you recommend removing the "L" shaped tunnel on the Air box lid? Do you recommend a hole in the side of the box and a Ram Air tube? If so, what size and location? 3 inch?; Beside radiator? Behind grill? In the hole in the fender well? anywhere else?? Besides removing inside wall and closing hole to resonator, What other Air box mods are worthwhile? Thanks for your input.
05-11-2014, 02:50 PM
#2
I started by adding a snorkel onto the oem air box which fed cold air and no risk of hydrolock. I just added a vented hood and it has dropped the underhood temps by a big amount, the entire air box and intake arm is totally cold now.
The intake manifold temps have dropped from being very hot to just warm now. I'm really impressed with the changes, my intake air temps have dropped considerably and it doesn't take much speed to get the engine bay to cool down. Even the front of my valvecover is much cooler.
I would not remove the L-shaped duct on the oem air box lid as it channels air to the filter and it is a mandrel pipe without restriction.
The intake manifold temps have dropped from being very hot to just warm now. I'm really impressed with the changes, my intake air temps have dropped considerably and it doesn't take much speed to get the engine bay to cool down. Even the front of my valvecover is much cooler.
I would not remove the L-shaped duct on the oem air box lid as it channels air to the filter and it is a mandrel pipe without restriction.
05-11-2014, 02:51 PM
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Pop the top off and call it a day. Aint gunna mattrr much. Has anyone actually tried a ram air intake straight to the engine with no air filter on any car? Seems like it wud almost be forced induction at 60mph or more?
05-11-2014, 04:35 PM
#4
I started by adding a snorkel onto the oem air box which fed cold air and no risk of hydrolock. I just added a vented hood and it has dropped the underhood temps by a big amount, the entire air box and intake arm is totally cold now.
The intake manifold temps have dropped from being very hot to just warm now. I'm really impressed with the changes, my intake air temps have dropped considerably and it doesn't take much speed to get the engine bay to cool down. Even the front of my valvecover is much cooler.
I would not remove the L-shaped duct on the oem air box lid as it channels air to the filter and it is a mandrel pipe without restriction.
The intake manifold temps have dropped from being very hot to just warm now. I'm really impressed with the changes, my intake air temps have dropped considerably and it doesn't take much speed to get the engine bay to cool down. Even the front of my valvecover is much cooler.
I would not remove the L-shaped duct on the oem air box lid as it channels air to the filter and it is a mandrel pipe without restriction.
05-11-2014, 04:46 PM
#5
Originally Posted by JFUSION' timestamp='1399848604' post='23154950
I started by adding a snorkel onto the oem air box which fed cold air and no risk of hydrolock. I just added a vented hood and it has dropped the underhood temps by a big amount, the entire air box and intake arm is totally cold now.
The intake manifold temps have dropped from being very hot to just warm now. I'm really impressed with the changes, my intake air temps have dropped considerably and it doesn't take much speed to get the engine bay to cool down. Even the front of my valvecover is much cooler.
I would not remove the L-shaped duct on the oem air box lid as it channels air to the filter and it is a mandrel pipe without restriction.
The intake manifold temps have dropped from being very hot to just warm now. I'm really impressed with the changes, my intake air temps have dropped considerably and it doesn't take much speed to get the engine bay to cool down. Even the front of my valvecover is much cooler.
I would not remove the L-shaped duct on the oem air box lid as it channels air to the filter and it is a mandrel pipe without restriction.
I know on the ap1 the sensor is reading higher air temps due to heat captured by the intake manifold, but I wonder if it could it be giving more accurate readings in terms of fuel metering with it being closer to the intake ports ?. I think the ap1 sensor is reading accurately but it reads the air temps inside the intake manifold and those temps are always higher compared to incoming air at the air box.
Moving it to the intake arm like the ap2 setup will result in cooler temp readings that more accurately reflect the incoming air temp, but I'm not sure if that is more accurate or not when it comes to fuel metering ?. It is better for data logging intake temps though.
Just thinking out loud here.
05-11-2014, 07:00 PM
#6
Popping the top off will only induce severe heat soak. I strongly do not advise doing this.....
05-11-2014, 09:54 PM
#7
Originally Posted by jordanksartell
Popping the top off will only induce severe heat soak. I strongly do not advise doing this.....
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05-12-2014, 05:19 AM
#9
For the stock box, get a snorkel and line the box with heat tape and call it a day. Those are about the only improvements you can make to the stock box that will be worth your while.