Air Box Mods
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Air Box Mods
Do you recommend removing the "L" shaped tunnel on the Air box lid? Do you recommend a hole in the side of the box and a Ram Air tube? If so, what size and location? 3 inch?; Beside radiator? Behind grill? In the hole in the fender well? anywhere else?? Besides removing inside wall and closing hole to resonator, What other Air box mods are worthwhile? Thanks for your input.
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 29,848
Likes: 5,415
From: Ontario Canada
I started by adding a snorkel onto the oem air box which fed cold air and no risk of hydrolock. I just added a vented hood and it has dropped the underhood temps by a big amount, the entire air box and intake arm is totally cold now.
The intake manifold temps have dropped from being very hot to just warm now. I'm really impressed with the changes, my intake air temps have dropped considerably and it doesn't take much speed to get the engine bay to cool down. Even the front of my valvecover is much cooler.
I would not remove the L-shaped duct on the oem air box lid as it channels air to the filter and it is a mandrel pipe without restriction.
The intake manifold temps have dropped from being very hot to just warm now. I'm really impressed with the changes, my intake air temps have dropped considerably and it doesn't take much speed to get the engine bay to cool down. Even the front of my valvecover is much cooler.
I would not remove the L-shaped duct on the oem air box lid as it channels air to the filter and it is a mandrel pipe without restriction.
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 7,336
Likes: 109
I started by adding a snorkel onto the oem air box which fed cold air and no risk of hydrolock. I just added a vented hood and it has dropped the underhood temps by a big amount, the entire air box and intake arm is totally cold now.
The intake manifold temps have dropped from being very hot to just warm now. I'm really impressed with the changes, my intake air temps have dropped considerably and it doesn't take much speed to get the engine bay to cool down. Even the front of my valvecover is much cooler.
I would not remove the L-shaped duct on the oem air box lid as it channels air to the filter and it is a mandrel pipe without restriction.
The intake manifold temps have dropped from being very hot to just warm now. I'm really impressed with the changes, my intake air temps have dropped considerably and it doesn't take much speed to get the engine bay to cool down. Even the front of my valvecover is much cooler.
I would not remove the L-shaped duct on the oem air box lid as it channels air to the filter and it is a mandrel pipe without restriction.
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 29,848
Likes: 5,415
From: Ontario Canada
Originally Posted by JFUSION' timestamp='1399848604' post='23154950
I started by adding a snorkel onto the oem air box which fed cold air and no risk of hydrolock. I just added a vented hood and it has dropped the underhood temps by a big amount, the entire air box and intake arm is totally cold now.
The intake manifold temps have dropped from being very hot to just warm now. I'm really impressed with the changes, my intake air temps have dropped considerably and it doesn't take much speed to get the engine bay to cool down. Even the front of my valvecover is much cooler.
I would not remove the L-shaped duct on the oem air box lid as it channels air to the filter and it is a mandrel pipe without restriction.
The intake manifold temps have dropped from being very hot to just warm now. I'm really impressed with the changes, my intake air temps have dropped considerably and it doesn't take much speed to get the engine bay to cool down. Even the front of my valvecover is much cooler.
I would not remove the L-shaped duct on the oem air box lid as it channels air to the filter and it is a mandrel pipe without restriction.
I know on the ap1 the sensor is reading higher air temps due to heat captured by the intake manifold, but I wonder if it could it be giving more accurate readings in terms of fuel metering with it being closer to the intake ports ?. I think the ap1 sensor is reading accurately but it reads the air temps inside the intake manifold and those temps are always higher compared to incoming air at the air box.
Moving it to the intake arm like the ap2 setup will result in cooler temp readings that more accurately reflect the incoming air temp, but I'm not sure if that is more accurate or not when it comes to fuel metering ?. It is better for data logging intake temps though.
Just thinking out loud here.
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,539
Likes: 6
From: McKinney, TX
Popping the top off will only induce severe heat soak. I strongly do not advise doing this.....
