My first topic so bear with me. I'll give as much descriptive info as I can.

I just changed my oil for the first time with my 2002 26,000 mile S2000 and after finishing I pulled the dipstick and saw a bunch of very tiny air bubbles. This shouldn't be and I believe it is very bad for the motor. The first problem was I couldn't get the oil filter off and my oil filter wrench has gone missing. I decided to leave the filter on since it was put on at 24k miles and should be able to make it to 30k, when I intend to change all the fluids (motor, trans, diff). Next, when I went to put in the Valvoline Max Life Engine Protectant it poured very thick, almost gummy, but I figured that was normal. I use MLEP because of the lack of Moly in Mobil 1. I used four quarts of Mobil 1 10w-30, and then checked the dipstick it was at the max line. I started the car to circulate the new fluids and let it run for about 3 minutes, until I got to three bars on the water temp. When I pulled the dipstick this time was when I saw the air bubbles. I started the car again and revved it a little bit, up to about 3k, and then shut it off to check the stick again but it still had air bubbles. I drove the car up to my driveway to get my digital camera and take pictures of it, but when I pulled the stick this time there were no bubbles. What is going on? Has anyone had this happen before? It has never happened on any of my other cars. I have to drive the car as it is my only transport, but I will keep it below 4k to minimize the risk of engine damage. I intend to change the oil and filter again soon because of the air bubbles but want to get some input from the forum before I do. Thanks in advance.

Will

 

First, the car takes 5 1/2 quarts to fill. You have to clean the dip stick every time you check it. The oil seems to take a route that causes it to hit the dip stick, and will look full when it isn't.

Next, you don't need that MLEP crap. Actually if the stuff is that thick then you could damage your engine. The s2k has a very high oil pressure, and too thick a fluid could be a disaster waiting to happen.

You don't need anything except mobile 1. Period end of story. Actually just about any 10w30 motor oil will work just fine.

 

How much mlep did you use?

anyway, I see bubbles on the dipstick in my S2k after an oil change too. I never thought much of it. hrmm.. I wasn't much help.

 

First, not every car will take 5.5 quarts to fill. Mine only takes 5. Some take almost 6.

Second, that "MLEP crap" isn't crap. It's actually a very good addative for our cars if someone is looking to put more moly into the mixture. Often this would most likely be used during breakin when you change out the factory fill. But also later in the car's life (50k+) it can be beneficial.

Lastly:
Why is that? there are beneficial addatives out there, such as valvoline's max life addative, or lubecontrol's LC20 that can help prolong engine life.

 

It says 5.1 quarts in the manual, the MLEP is a little more than half a quart and judging by the size of the oil filter that is about a half quart. I wipe the stick off every time, it is the only way to get a proper reading, and even then it can be wrong. I use the additives at the advise of the motorbuilder for my racecar and the S2000, he is concerned about wear with the lack of molybdenum disulfide in Mobil 1.

 

moly isn't necessarily something you need at the mileage your car is at. it is beneficial during breakin, and can also be beneficial once the mileage gets up there.

 

I used BG MOA in my integra gsr and thought about in my 03. Any input on their products?

 

Cars, including ours, have logged very high mileage without any additives. In fact, read your owner's manual. It states that engine oil additives are not recommended.

The bubbles you see on your dipstick may simply be a result of the can of goo you poured in. It may temporarily block up oil return pathways till it gets really hot and begins to mix in with the rest of the oil. This could cause a momentary oil shortage to the oilpump and the resultant cavitation may be what's producing the bubbles. Too late now, but you should have heated up the can of goo first before trying to pour it in. It's no different than Andy Granitelli's "STP". In its popular days, you always boiled it in a pot of water before trying to pour it in.
I'm not a real moly fan (after the initial build) but if using it gives you the "warm and cuddlies", then that alone, has done its job. Afterall, even after that huge lawsuit, they still market "Slick50" as the best thing since sliced bread.

 

Ah, but you DON'T need it! You DON'T need Slick 50, or Prolong, or wanker spankers fancy flying doodad oil additive.

I'll admit "crap" is purely my own opinion though.

In older cars that aren't running as smooth as they did off the show room floor, these additives sometimes help smooth things out. But similar results have been had by using a slightly thicker oil too.

Personally, I just don't want that sludge sitting in my oil pan. Todays motor oils (the good brands) simply don't need additives to do their job. 30 years ago the additives would have been a good thing probably... today, blah.

 

i never said you needed it, but dont call it crap.