WD stands for Water Displacement. It does a lot of things very well, but its not intended for, nor does it do a very good job at substituting for penetrating oil.

But no amount of penetrating oil will free a stuck compliance bushing bolt. It rust fuses to the inner bushing along the entire length of the bolt, and its a long bolt.

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I used a big ass flathead screwdriver to wedge a little bit of space for my modified puller and got the sleeve out of the compliance bushing without having to cut anything.

 

You used a puller to remove the bolt from the car so arm could be removed? How did puller grip bolt?

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-Jaw-Twin...3&var=&vxp=mtr

I took this piece of Chinese crap filed the edges so it would hook under the sleeve.

 

Ordered new front right lower control arm and front right inner and outer tie rods. Shop told me that these are the problems as what last shop told me ( minus tie rods) once installed, will update. I already changed the driver side lower control arm so might as well do this one too. Hopefully this fixes the issue

 

Caster is a degree plus off still. I don't know if the shop can't do it right or I'm still needing to do something else? I just noticed a clunking at my rear which wasn't there before. I am returning back to the place to hopefully fix it. This thing is driving me nuts. Car drives pretty strIghy and steering wheel feels nice and stiff. Any idea guys?

 

Caster increases steering effort, you have a bit more than you need but it's not hurting anything. Sometimes techs think that the compliance bushing is to adjust camber, and it does, but it's mainly for caster.